names of any very illustrious writers born in it, or formed in its schools. We may therefore consider the import of this verse, as far as it confers on the Milanese any pre-eminence of talent, as merely poetical and complimentary *. Another mark of resemblance I must mention, which is, that the modern like the ancient. town. is surrounded with a double wall, which is perhaps raised on the foundations of the old double circumference, and may be considered as an indication that the city covers as great a space now as formerly, and perhaps contains as many inhabitants. I shall say nothing of the intended embellishments, nor of the future Forum of Bonaparte: the present government has a great talent for destruction, and is now occupied in the demolition of ramparts, convents, and houses, to make room for the latter edifice, destined hereafter to *The author does not mean to insinuate that Milan has produced no great men, or no celebrated authors; but that the great men and celebrated authors which she has produced, either as natives or students, have not acquired that preeminence of fame which distinguishes the denizens of several other cities, such as Verona, Padua, and Florence; and of course that they were not entitled to the appellation of very illustrious writers. outshine that of Trajan itself. When it is to be begun is not known; meantime the work of destruction proceeds. However be these improvements what they may, I must say, that the beauties of Milan are not a little at present, and in opposition to the poet's declaration were, I believe, anciently still more eclipsed by the splendor of Rome. Juncta premit vicinia Romæ, ant observation applicable to Milan, to Genoa, and still more to Florence because nearer that Capital, so long the seat of beauty, of empire, and of Majesty *. * The traveller would do well to visit, as he easily may, the three cities above-mentioned, to which we may add Turin and Venice on his way to Rome. As for Naples it derives its attractions not from art but from nature, and will charm as long as its bay with all its isles, its coasts with their windings, its lakes with their wild borders and classic haunts, and its mountains with their fires, fertility and verdure continue to glow with the beams of the sun that now enlightens them, CHAP. II. Como-The Larian Lake-Pliniana, the intermitting Fountain-Insula Comacena-The Lago di Lecco—The Addua-Site of Pliny's Villas-Observations on Collegiate Churches -Lago di Lugano-Varese and its Lake. ON Monday the 27th of September, we set out from Milan, about twelve o'clock, and took the road to Como. The distance is about twentysix miles, and runs over an extensive plain, presenting in the midst of verdure and fertility many villas, but no object particularly interesting. At Berlasina (about half way) we changed horses; and a few miles further on, the distant Glaciers began to increase in magnitude and grandeur, and at the same time, the country around gradually assumed rougher features, and presented hills heightening as we advanced, and exhibiting a variety of wild broken scenery. We entered Como about six o'clock. Comum is like most of the towns between the Alps and Apennines of great antiquity, and like them also it owes its origin to a Gallic tribe, and its importance to Roman colonization. For the latter benefit it was indebted partly to the father of Pompey, and partly to Julius Cæsar. It never fell to its lot to make a figure in the world, nor indeed to attract the attention of the historian, either by its glories or by its reverses; and it seems to have derived from its humble mediocrity a greater degree of security and quiet in the numberless disasters of Italy than any of the more powerful and more illustrious cities can boast of. Its principal advantage is its situation, and its greatest glory is the reputation of one of its ancient denizens, Pliny the Younger. Its situation is beautiful. On the southern extremity of the Larian lake it commands a fine prospect of that noble expanse of water, with its bold and varied borders. It is covered behind, and on each side, with fertile hills. It is an episcopal town of some extent, and of a pleasing appearance. The cathedral is of white marble, and mixed architeeture: the front is of light and not inelegant Gothie; the nave is supported by Gothic arches ; the choir and transepts are adorned with composite pillars; a dome rises over the centre. The effect of the whole, though the mixture is incorrect, is not unpleasant. In the front of the cathedral, there is a statue of Pliny with basso relievos alluding to his writings, and on each side of the grand entrance is an inscription in his honor. The inscriptions are more commendable for the spirit than for the style; the best of the two concludes in the following manner. Ordo, populusque Comensis Caium Plinium Secundum . . . . . . Municipem suum incomparabilem statuâ et elogio ornavere. Faustus honor, dulcisque juvat me fama Secundum Without doubt, a writer so much attached to his country on one side, and so fond of fame on the other, as Pliny seems to have been, may be supposed to look down with complacency on the honors thus zealously paid in his beloved Comum to his memory so many ages after his decease. However, these honors are justly due, not to his reputation only but to his public spirit, as few citizens seem to have conferred so many solid benefits upon their country as he did on Comum. In the first place he established, or at least, he contributed largely both by his example and munificence, to the establishment of a school * Tuæ meæque delicia, says he to his friend, speaking of this town, their common country.-i. 3. |