The weather, which had been fine all day, now changed suddenly to dense clouds and snow showers, blowing fresh from the south, with so much sea that I did not anchor as I intended.

I left the ship with two boats; the senior lieutenant, Mr. Maguire; Mr. Seemann, naturalist; and Mr. Collinson, mate, in one. Mr. Goodridge, surgeon; Mr. Pakenham, midshipman; and myself, in the other, almost despairing of being able to reach the island.

The ship kept off and on outside the thickest part of the loose ice, through which the boats were obliged to be very careful in picking their way, on the S.E. side, where I thought I might have ascended. We reached the island, and found running on it a very heavy sea; the first lieutenant, however, landed, having backed his boat in until he could get foothold (without swimming), and then jumped overboard. I followed his example; the others were anxious to do the same, but the sea was so high that I could not permit them. We hoisted the jack and took possession of the island with the usual ceremonies, in the name of her most gracious Majesty Queen Victoria.

The extent we had to walk over was not more than thirty feet. From this space, and a short distance that we scrambled up, we collected eight species of plants; specimens of the rock were also brought away.

With the time we could spare, and our materials, the island was perfectly inaccessible to us. This was a great disappointment to us, as from its summit, which is elevated above the sea 1,400 feet, much could have been seen, and all doubt set aside, more particularly as I knew the moment I got on board I should be obliged to carry sail to get off the pack and out of the bight of it we were in; neither could I expect that at this late period of the season the weather would improve.

The island on which I landed is four miles and a half in extent east and west, and about two and a half north and south, in the shape of a triangle, the western end being its apex. It is almost inaccessible on all sides, and a solid mass of granite. Innumerable black and white divers (common to this sea) here found a safe place to deposit their eggs and bring up their young; not a walrus or seal was seen on its shore, or on the ice in its vicinity. We observed here none of the small land birds that were so numerous about us before making the land.

It becomes a nervous thing to report a discovery of land in these regions without actually landing on it, after the unfortunate mistake to the southward; but as far as a man can be certain, who has 130 pair of eyes to assist him, and all agreeing, I am certain we have discovered an extensive land. I think, also, it is more than probable that the peaks we saw are a continuation of the range of mountains seen by the natives off Cape Jakan (coast of Asia), mentioned by Baron Wrangell in his Polar Voyages. I returned to the ship at 7 p.m., and very reluctantly made all the sail we could carry from this interesting neighbourhood to the south-east, the wind at the time allowing me to lie just clear of the pack.

August 18.-Towards the morning we had a very strong wind, with constant snow storms and excessive cold. The wind having changed to northward left me no choice but to return to my rendezvous for the boats.

August 20.-Sighted Cape Lisburne in a thick fog; hauled off to await clear weather; passed several carcases of whales.

August 21.-At 2 p.m. again made the Cape, found the high land heavily covered with snow, and the low land partially. Very threatening weather; remained off and on until noon of the 23rd, when we anchored in fourteen fathoms, about twenty-five miles to the southward of the Cape. Here I landed, accompanied by the naturalist and several officers. I erected a mark and buried a bottle. A beautiful stream of water ran into this bay. The naturalist had a good harvest on its banks, which were literally covered with flowers, removed only a few feet from what I considered to be perpetual snow. Quantities of coal were also found here.

There were about forty natives, all of whom we had seen before, very poor and miserable looking, but very friendly. They all had their bows and quivers with them, but on coming up to us placed them behind them.

Finding a line drawn on the sand so useful as a boundary for their approach at Wainwright's Inlet, I again had recourse to it, which they respected as before. I made them all presents, and returned to the ship in the evening just before she was enveloped in a dense fog.

August 24, a.m.-Weighed, with a light air from the north-east, and clear (hot) weather; running for Point Hope, where I intended to build another mark, if the Plover had not already done it.

At 1 p.m. sighted off the low land the Nancy Dawson yacht and the Owen. Mr. Shedden came on board, accompanied by Mr. Martin, the second master of the Plover, who had been sent back by Mr. Pullen in charge of the two large boats of the expedition. I learned from Mr. Martin that he had arrived at the anchorage off Point Hope on the 19th instant, in company with the yacht, and was preparing to start again north in the Owen, sending the other boats back in charge of the yacht to Kotzebue Sound.

The boats, after leaving the Plover, on the 25th of July, were detained a day or two by the ice before reaching Point Barrow; found the natives most friendly, and anxious to assist them in every way. The boats were accompanied as far as Point Barrow by the yacht. This vessel had many escapes. She was pressed on shore once; ran on shore on another occasion to the eastward of Point Barrow, and was only got off by the assistance of the natives, who manned her capstan and hove with great goodwill.

On another occasion she parted her bower cable from the pressure of the ice that came suddenly down on her, and had a narrow escape of a severe squeeze. She recovered her anchor and cable. Mr. Shedden erected a mark in Refuge Inlet, where he also intended to have left some provisions, but the natives were too numerous to do so without their knowing it.

He found another small inlet, a short distance south of Refuge Inlet, in lat. 71o 5', where he buried from his own store a large cask of flour and a large cask of preserved meats. At Refuge Inlet he left information as to the position of these casks.

Nothing could exceed the kindness of Mr. Shedden to those in the boats, in supplying them with everything his vessel could afford, and in following them with considerable risk. His crew were, unfortunately, a most disaffected set. He had too many of them for so small a vessel.

The boats all reached Dease's Inlet on the evening of the 3rd, but were detained until the 5th by strong winds.

Their time, however, was well employed in stowing their boats and a "baidar" Mr. Pullen bought at Point Barrow. They were fairly away on the afternoon of the 5th, having with them 100 days' provisions, besides ten cases of pemmican; this little expedition then consisted of two 27-foot whale boats, and one native baidar, manned with fourteen persons in all. (See margin.)*

I have sent their lordships copies of Mr. Pullen's letters, both public and private, that have been received since his departure. From them they will gain more information than I could afford.

Through these letters their lordships will also see with what a noble and proper spirit Lieutenant Pullen undertook his voyage, being nevertheless fully alive to its dangers and exposure.

I am quite sure their lordships, when they appointed Mr. Pullen, were fully aware of his character and capabilities. I trust, however, that they will not consider the following comments out of place :

I don't know any officer more capable of conducting with success such an expedition. He possesses health, great bodily strength, and endurance,

* The margin of the original MS. Not published.

ability, and great decision of character. Coupled with all these good points in their leader, the boats had an open sea and a fair wind, so that I have no apprehensions as to their reaching one of the Hudson Bay's establishments on the Mackenzie, early in this season, though not sufficiently early to return to Kotzebue Sound this year.

Dease and Simpson certainly made their voyage from the Mackenzie to Point Barrow and back in one season, but then they travelled west at the commencement of the season, and returned to the eastward at its close, when the winds prevailed from the westward. Our boats would have to return to the westward at the latter part of the season, which I believe to be impossible from the packing of the ice, the heavy westerly winds and currents.

Mr. Pullen's letter says pretty plainly that he will not return; he will therefore be awaiting their lordship's instructions at York Factory. August 24.-We hove to off Point Hope towards midnight in very dirty weather.

August 25.-In the morning stood in. Sent a boat to the yacht to tell her I thought she was in a very dangerous anchorage, with the wind, as it then was, from the S.S.E. Ordered the two longer boats out immediately. Finding the weather still more threatening, I hoisted the Plover's boat in, being handier for my tackles than the Owen, determining to go myself north in the ship.

Provisioned the Owen, and despatched her, in company with the yacht, to Kotzebue Sound, supposing the Plover to have gone thither. I desired Commander Moore to employ her in the examination of the Buckland River.

We had a calm in the afternoon, with heavy rollers, without any apparent cause. We fortunately were two or three miles off the land. Had the yacht and boats remained at their anchorage they certainly would have been driven on shore without my being able to render them any assistance.

A fresh breeze from the southward released us from this unpleasant position. We just scraped clear of the shoal off Point Hope, and bore up northerly, parting company with the yacht and the Owen.

August 27.-Continued to run to the northward until 6 a.m. of this day. Had an increasing breeze from S.S.E., with frequent snow showers. Hove to for fine weather. By 9 a.m. we were reduced to a close-reefed maintopsail and staysail, having washed away one of our quarter-boats. I have never seen so hollow or distressing a sea for a ship-no small decked boat could have lived in it. It was, therefore, fortunate that I had arrived at Point Hope before the Owen started again north, and that I had decided on sending her to Kotzebue Sound.

I kept the ship heading in for the land, hoping that this gale, like our former ones, would be of short duration, and that I might again look into Wainwright's Inlet. The only alteration, however, in the weather was that the gale from S.S.E. ceased, in about twelve hours, and shifted to north-west and west, from which points it blew gales, bringing with them excessive cold weather, with strong squalls and heavy falls of snow.

August 27.-In standing to the westward we observed, at 10 p.m., the ice blink was very strong from north to north-west, about fifteen miles from us; wore, hoping to weather Blossom Shoal at least forty miles.

August 28.-Wore in eleven fathoms on the shoal this morning, having nine fathoms before we trimmed. Had a current north 84° east, setting thirtysix miles in eighteen hours. Wind west.

Finding it impossible to remain on the coast, I began to work off with all the sail the ship would carry. My crew were necessarily much exposed in making and shortening sail, and suffered a good deal from colds and rheumatism. I was also shorthanded, having been obliged to send ten men to the Plover, besides those I discharged at Oahu.

On the morning of the 31st I again stood in for Point Hope, but finding there was no landing there I bore up for Kotzebue Sound.

Passed Cape Krusenstern on the morning of the 1st, in a gale from the north-west, under third reefs of topsails and reefed courses.

Before passing Hotham we were under sail, and anchored off Chamisso Island at 9.30 p.m.

Found the Plover and the yacht at anchor under Choris Peninsula. The Owen was absent with Captain Moore up the Buckland River, but expected daily her return on the 3rd.

After completing our water from the springs in Chamisso, my people were employed assisting the Plover in preparing her winter quarters; the boatswain with a party and the carpenters building a house.

Commander Moore having determined to winter in the Sound, and being very desirous to visit some chiefs who were reported to live in a considerable place up the river, I determined to go thither with a party sufficient to ensure respect from these people, although Captain Moore told me they were most friendly. Accordingly, on the 9th, I started with the Owen, the Plover's decked boat, the Herald's cutter, and two gigs, their crews, and several officers.

The first night we bivouacked at Elephant Point, and had the whole crew roaming over the ice cliffs for fossils, but could not find one of any importance.

The second night we stayed at a large native village of twenty-two tents and about 150 people. We pitched our tents close to one extreme of them, had our coppers, pots, kettles, axes, saws, &c., on shore, but not an article was lost, although, at times, we had a third of their numbers about us. Even in this way they were not troublesome when we told them we wished them to go away.

They were all very fine men, but disfigured in appearance by the tabrets they all wear. They brought us wood and water, gave us fish and venison, and offered us whales' blubber and seals' flesh.

Leaving a few of the men to take care of the boats the rest came on shore for an hour. The natives were highly amused, and joined in their sports of leaping and running.

The sportsmen were always accompanied by some of them; they were greatly surprised to see some of the young officers killing the birds right and left.

The moment the boat started (until we got far up) we were preceded by their little kiacs, sounding with their paddles to the channel. We had pilots in each of the large boats, who remained constantly with us, and who experienced great concern when they unavoidably got us on shore.

I have been the more particular in my remarks relative to these interesting people, because their behaviour on the visits of Captain Beechey and myself have been so very opposite. It may be accounted for in this way-we had an interpreter who could speak with them, through which they found out what our object was in going amongst them.

The Russian settlement has, also, I consider, been very instrumental in causing this alteration in their conduct. We found many of them with shirts, handkerchiefs of gaudy colours, cottons printed with walrus, reindeer, and all the other animals that they are in the habit of catching, and represented on ivory knives and kettles-all these came from the Russian settlement. They were latterly very anxious to obtain muskets, and evinced no fear in discharging them."

September 11.-We arrived with the boats at a part of the river, thirty miles up, perfectly barred across with heavy rock, over which there was a fall of about thirteen inches. Here the heavy boats were stopped, but by unlading the lighter ones we were enabled to haul them over.

Wishing myself to return to the ship, and Commander Moore being still anxious to go on, I directed Mr. Maguire (senior lieutenant of the Herald) to accompany him in my gig, for the purpose of mutual protection (leaving

one of the larger boats below the fall to wait their return); I directed him to make a tracing of the river as far as they might ascend it, and return to their respective vessels before the 23rd instant. They ascended the river about thirty miles beyond where I left them. In this distance they met with but two natives. They passed several places where they were obliged to unload and haul these light boats over. They found, also, the pine trees scattered about in twos and threes a little distance from the bank.

The river, from the mud and leaves hanging on the banks, showed that, at some period of the year, it was at least ten feet above the level at that time. The absence of spars or wood of any description on the frequent bridges of rocks across the river, on the tops of the many spots of sand, or on the summit of the banks (which bear evident marks of having been overflowed at some season), shows that the Buckland is not the source from which the enormous quantities of wood found at Choris Peninsula is derived. We have never found a particle of wood on the eastern face of this Peninsula-all on its western.

Commander Moore and his party returned on the 19th. We now commenced to prepare for our departure southward. The Plover's house was nearly completed, and as much provisions as she could stow or take care of were placed on board her.

September 26.-By this day we were ready to start, having fully completed all the Plover's wants. She was not dismantled, nor did Commander Moore intend doing so until she was fairly laid up on the beach.

In consequence of the illness of Mr. Shedden, of the yacht, and of my having previously removed his chief mate, I was obliged to direct Mr. Parsons (second master), of this ship, to take charge of her, and navigate her to Mazatlan, where he might expect to meet me.

Early on the morning of the 29th of September I weighed from Kotzebue Sound, with a fair breeze from the north-east, yacht in company. At the time of our departure there was early snow on the low lands the streams were still running. In fact, the whole month of September had been remarkably fine-generally with strong winds from the eastward.

We experienced very bad weather on getting out of the Sound: parted company with the yacht.

Passed Behring's Straits on the morning of the 2nd of October, in a heavy gale from the N.N.W.

October 11.-At midnight passed the Aleutian Group by the Straits of Amoukhta, in longitude 1710 west. These straits are thirty-five miles wide, perfectly safe, and free from the races usually met with in the other straits of this chain.

On the 13th of October, in latitude 47° 30' and longitude 67, we experienced a heavy northerly gale, with an unusually heavy sea, which broke on board of us and nearly swept our decks.

On the 19th of October, in latitude 43° and longitude 106', we had another gale at S.S.E. Between this and the 14th of November, when we anchored at the Port of Mazatlan, there was nothing remarkable but the prevalence, in 41° north, of south-east winds, which forced us to the coast, within 100 miles of San Francisco, before we got the north-west wind.

At Mazatlan I found lying her Majesty's ship Amphitrite and the Nancy Dawson yacht, this little vessel having arrived the morning previous.

I have endeavoured in this letter and the accompanying documents to give their lordships a detailed account of my proceedings while in the Arctic circle, which I trust will meet with their approval.

And, in conclusion, I hope for the consideration of their lordships for the officers serving under my command, who have, as heretofore, without an exception, displayed uncommon zeal in their respective duties.

I have the honour to be, Sir, your very obedient servant,
HENRY KELLETT, Captain.

The Secretary of the Admiralty, London.