pervert the good sense, of the mild, the judicious Addison. Succeeding travellers have improved on this author's defects, and loaded their pages with misrepresentation and invective: while, within the last ten years, some tourists have employed their journals as vehicles of revolutionary madness, and instead of the laudes Italia and the fortia facta patrum have given the public elaborate panegyrics on the French generals, and accounts of their achievements as exaggerated as their own dispatches*.

To conclude this topic,—an attentive traveller, after having acquired the preparatory knowledge recommended in the preceding pages, may safely rely on his own diligence, aided by the observations of the intelligent inhabitants, and by the maps and guides to be procured in every great town. Books, though necessary, are an incumbrance which never fails to increase as we advance; we

*The best guide or rather companion which the traveller can take with him, is Corinne ou l'Italie, a work of singular ingenuity and eloquence. In it Madame de Staël does ample justice to the Italian character; though a protestant she speaks of the religion of Italy with reverence, and treats even superstition itself with indulgence. She describes the climate, the beauties, the monuments of that privileged country with glowing animation, "Museo contingens cuncta lepore:" she raises the reader above the common level of thought, and inspires him with that lofty temper of mind, without which we can neither discover nor relish the great and the beautiful in art or in

nature.

ought therefore to confine ourselves to the classics, if possible, and even then we shall find our library sufficiently numerous and bulky.

XI. Maps form an indispensable part of a traveller's furniture. At setting out, two will be sufficient: one of Ancient, one of Modern Italy. Of the former D'Anville's is the best; of the latter, an excellent one, extremely beautiful in the execution, and upon a scale large enough for information without being burthensome, has been published by Zannoni*. As the traveller advances, he must enrich his collection, and procure in its principal town, the map of each province or division. At Milan, he will find separate maps of the lakes and the various regions of the Milanese. At Mantua, a beautiful, correct, but I believe scarce map, of that city and its vicinity, should be inquired for. At Bologna may be had the excellent maps of the Roman territory by Father Boscovich. At Rome may be purchased a map of the patrimony of St. Peter, and one of Latium. These I recommend, as they give the ancient and modern names of each town and territory, and at the same time mark the ancient roads, aqueducts, and ruins. The great and beautiful map of Rome

* The map prefixed to the present edition has been copied from that of Zannoni alluded to. It is very accurate, and well executed, and does credit to the ingenious engraver, Mr. Smith.

must not be neglected, though if it should be deemed too expensive and bulky, there are two others of a smaller and more convenient size. The best map of the kingdom of Naples is in four sheets, well printed, and said to be very accurate, by Zannoni. There are, moreover, three maps of Naples and its neighbourhood, of the bay and its islands, of exquisite beauty in execution and ornament. These of course every traveller will purchase*.

ROUTE.

XII. We are now to speak of the time requisite to make a full and complete Tour of Italy, as well as of the season best adapted to the commencement of such a Tour. A year, I think, is the shortest space that ought to be allotted, and a year and a half or even two years might be well devoted to this useful and amusing part of our travels. The want of leisure is the only objection that can be made to this arrangement, but it is an objection seldom well grounded, as youth in general from nineteen to three or four-and-twenty, have more time than business, and seem much more frequently at a loss for occupation than for leisure. Occupation, necessary at all seasons, but particularly in

*

Maps on the same scale, and of the same beauty, of all the provinces of the Neapolitan territory, have, I believe, been since published.

youth, should be furnished, and no occupation can suit that age, when the mind is restless and the body active, better than travelling. Moreover, every man of observation who has made a cursory visit to Italy, will find that a first view of that country has merely qualified him to make a second visit with more advantage, and will perhaps feel the cravings of unsatisfied curiosity, the visendi studium, at a time when travelling may be inconsistent with the cares and the duties of life. It is more prudent, therefore, to seize the first opportunity, and by then allotting a sufficient portion of time to the Tour, gratify himself with a full and perfect view for ever. Supposing therefore that a year and a 'half is to be devoted to this part of the journey. I advise the traveller to pass the Alps early in the autumn, thus to avoid the inconvenience of travelling in winter or cold weather, an inconvenience always felt on the Continent, where ready fires, warm rooms, doors and windows that exclude the air, are seldom found. His route to the Alps may be as follows. He may first proceed to Brussels, thence to Liege, Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle, Cologne, Bonne, and along the banks of the Rhine to Coblentz, Mentz, and Strasburg; there cross the Rhine to Manheim, traverse the Palatinate, the territories of Wittenberg, Bavaria, and Saltzburg, enter the defiles of the Tyrol or Rhetian Alps, and passing through Inspruck and Trent turn to Bassano and to Maestre, whence he may send his carriage by land to Padua and embark for Venice. From Venice he may go by water up the Brenta to

Padua, where he may establish his head quarters, and visit Arcqua, the Monti Euganei, and thence pass onwards to Ferrara and Bologna; then follow the Via Emilia to Forli, thence proceed to Ravenna and Rimini, make an excursion to San Marino, and advance forward to Ancona, whence he may visit Osimo. He will then continue his journey by Loretto and Macerata to Tolentino; thence over the Apennines to Foligno, Spoleto, and Terni, and so follow the direct road through Civita Castellana to Rome.

I suppose that a traveller passes the Alps in September; of course he should reach Rome by the end of November. I calculate ten or fifteen days delay on account of the autumnal rains; for it is advisable by all means to stop at some large town during that period of inundation. These autumnal rains take place sometimes in September, though they frequently fall at a later period. At any rate, I would by no means advise a traveller to pass the Apennines, or visit any territory supposed to lie under the influence of the malaria, till these salubrious showers have purified the air and allayed the noxious vapours that hover over the Pomptine marshes, the Campagna di Roma, and some other low tracts, during the latter weeks of summer and the beginning of autumn: the air of Venice itself is supposed by many persons not to be quite exempt from this inconvenience.