After spending some time in writing till my mind was weary, I left the Bath, and sauntered two or three hundred paces to seek a little shade by the side of a small fragment of ruins. The other guide, knowing that I was indisposed, seemed to think it his duty to follow me step by step: he then sat down, much more quietly and respectfully than people of this country are often apt to do. I must, however, say, that although noise and rudeness are their general characteristics; yet there is, occasionally, in their way of treating strangers, a considerateness, which almost amounts to politeness.

The composure which came over my feverish spirits at this hour was inexpressibly refreshing. I laid myself down upon the ground; and, resting my head upon a stone near me, drew a little coolness from the soil: while the simple train of reflections, which naturally sprung up from the scene around me, added much to my enjoyment. At a great distance to the north, was the mountainous horizon, on the summit of which stands Safet, glistening with its noble castle: it is not improbably supposed that our Saviour had this spot in His eye, and directed the attention of His Disciples to it, when He said A city, that is set on a hill, cannot be hid: for it is full in view from the Mount of the Beatitudes, as well as from this place; and, indeed, seems to command all the country round to a great extent. Tracing, at a glance, the margin of this simple Lake, on the oppo site or eastern side, the eye rests on the inhospitable Country of the Gadarenes~inhospitable to this day; for my guide, after long silence, perceiving my attention directed that way, begins a long tale about the dangers of that part, the untamed and savage character of the mountaineers, and the extreme

hazard of attempts to visit them: few travellers, in fact, venture there: but, seeing that his account is not very congenial to my feelings at this moment, he has dropt his story. Close above my head, an Arab is come to spread upon the ruins his tattered clothes, which he has just washed in the Lake, that they may dry in the sun and, at a distance just perceivable, is another indolent peasant, sauntering by the water's edge, and singing at intervals a poor Arab song; which, though not "most musical," has nevertheless the charm of being "most melancholy." But that which awakens the tenderest emotions on viewing such a scene as this, is the remembrance of ONE, who formerly so often passed this way; and never passed without leaving, by His words and actions, some memorial of His Divine Wisdom and Love. Here, or in this neighbourhood, most of His mighty works were done: and, in our daily Religious Services, we have read, with the most intense interest; those passages of the Gospel which refer to these regions. However uncertain other traditionary geographical notices may be, here no doubt interrupts our enjoyment, in tracing the Redeemer's footsteps. This, and no other, is the Sea of Galilee-in its dimensions, as I should judge, resembling exactly the size of the Isle of Malta, about twenty miles in length, twelve in breadth, and sixty in circumference. Here Jesus called the Sons of Zebedee, from mending their nets, to become fishers of men. Here he preached to the multitudes crowding to the water's édge, himself putting off a little from the shore in Simon Peter's boat. But there is not a single boat now upon the Lake, to remind us of its former use. Yonder, on the right, must have been the very spot;

where, in the middle of their passage from this side toward Bethsaïda and Capernaum, the Disciples were affrighted at seeing Jesus walk upon the waterwhere He gently upbraided the sinking faith of Peter -where he said to the winds and waves, Peace! be still: and the sweet serenity which now rests upon the surface is the very same stillness, which then succeeded. Here, finally, it was, that Jesus appeared, the third time after His Resurrection, to His Disciples, as is related by St. John (chap. xxi); and put that question to the zealous, backslidden, but repentant Peter-Simon, son of Jonas, lovest thou me ?one question, thrice repeated; plainly denoting what the Saviour requires of all, who profess to be His: and followed up by that solemn charge, Feed my lambs-Feeed my sheep! While I gaze on the scene, and muse on the affecting records connected with it, faith in the Gospel-history seems almost realised to sight: and, though I cannot comprehend that great mystery of Godliness-God manifest in the flesh; yet, believing it, all my feelings of wonder and adoration are called into a more intimate exercise.

I was thus indulging in holy recollections, and expecting to prolong them fully another hour, my spirits being greatly relieved by the stillness and coolness of this short retirement; when the guide, who reclined near me all the time, signified, by the motion of his hand, that our companions were in view. I turned to look, and was pleased to find it so. They presently joined us, having ridden quick to their destination, and immediately returned. Though my meditations had been sweet, yet the sight of a friend and a brother, even after so short an absence, was to my weak spirits very animating;

and we immediately talked over, with much vivacity and cheerfulness, all that we had seen and felt.

We staid some time longer at the Bath; and then, returning to Tiberias, sought out the Christian Priest. He has under him from thirty to forty houses; and his Church, which we visited, is by them supposed to be built on the site of St. Peter's house. They are Greek Catholics, and under the "Terra Santa." We furnished the Priest with some Sacred Scriptures; but there was little zeal in him to receive them.

At the house of the Consul, we produced to the Jews the Hebrew New-Testament; but neither was this very acceptable to them. I was especially

struck to see the readiness with which one youth shewed to another, at once, the twentieth verse of the First Chapter of St. Matthew: he quickly found the passage, as one who had been early instructed to deny the Messiah: they were in our room: he read the passage with an air of scorn, made his companion understand his meaning, and then threw the book down; on which they both departed. It seemed to me no inapt illustration of the crime charged on the consciences of the Jewish People by Stephen (Acts vii. 51)-Ye stiff-necked, and uncircumcised in heart and ears, ye do always resist the Holy Ghost: as your fathers did, so do ye. Their will is, to have a Man for their Messiah, not a Divine Person. Truly, indeed, has St. Paul said (1 Cor. xii. 3)—No. man, speaking by the Spirit of God, calleth Jesus accursed; and no man can say that Jesus is the Lord, but by the Holy Ghost.

We feel ourselves greatly at a loss, in talking to these misguided people. At supper, we sat down

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with them, surrounded by Italian, Spanish, German, Hebrew, Rabbinical, and Arab tongues. Of these, the Italian was talked only by the aged Consul; who is almost deaf, and apparently quite indifferent to religious topics. Evidently, a Missionary to the Jews should have, not only a very peculiar line of education, but he must give himself almost wholly to them.

Wednesday, Nov. 12, 1823-After a very feverish and wakeful night, I was quite unable to ride to the ruins of Capernaum: while Mr. Fisk did this, I staid within doors the whole morning. He brings back a very meagre account, indeed, of the remains of that city; once exalted unto heaven, but now barely leaving a relique sufficient to attest its former existence. He found Bethsaïda, also, existing in little more than the name.

In the afternoon, we visited the Synagogues of Tiberias, and found them to be as follows:

The first which we visited was about fifty feet square, and belonged to the Sephartim: very few persons were in it, at the time of our visit. Close by its side is another, which is long, but very narrow: we went from the one direct to the other; and found this second one quite full, so that we had some difficulty in walking through it: the Polish fur cap distinguishes these Jews from the Spanish. The third Synagogue, to which we were taken, was called a College; and is used also as a Synagogue behind it was a very small room, appropriated to the use of the women, having its entrance from a different street: above the College, the upper floor consisted of two rooms, in which we counted (by calculation) fifteen hundred Hebrew books: those who conducted us, said that they had a great

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