CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

Excursion to Beneventum-Furce Caudine-Mount Taburnus-Bene-

ventum, its Triumphal Arch-Excursion-Pastum-Nucoria-Cava

-Salernum-Mount Alburnus-Pæstum, its History and Temples.

PAGE.

Excursion to Beneventum; the scenery by the way; reflections excited

by the view of a Gothic castle in Italy.....

1

Arienzo; site of........

2

Village called the Le Forche d'Arpaia, supposed by some to be the Furcæ
Caudinæ.....

ib.

Pastor of Arpaia; his patriotic enthusiasm....

3

The valley of Arpaia does not accord with Livy's description of the

Furcæ Caudinæ

4

Mount Tabernus; its present sterile appearance

5

Beneventum; sketch of its history

ib.

Bridge over the Calore; a Triumphal Arch of Trajan in high preservation

The Cathedral of Beneventum; the population of the town....

Beneventum one of the principal cities of the Samnites; their resistance

6

7

to the Roman power

ib.

....

A Harvest Scene, enlivened by a bag-pipe..

8

Pæstum, highly deserving of attention from its noble remains of

antiquity

9

Topography of the road to Pæstum...

10

PAGE.

Nocera; the ancient and modern town.

10

Town of Cava; the Mountain of Fenestra....

Salerno; its antiquity; two remarkable pulpits in the Cathedral......

The Promontory of Surrentum....

11

12

13

Pæstum; its deserted appearance; obscurity of its history; its magnifi-

cent ruins described ....

17

A Night Scene at Pæstum; the same in the splendour of the morning sun

The Sybarites; their sensibility

24

25

Return of the King to Naples-Rejoicings-Ornamental Buildings—

Court-Character of that Monarch-of the Queen-Illuminations

-Lazzaroni-Character of the Neapolitans-Return to Rome.

PAGE.

Objects of curiosity in the recesses of the Apennincs, still unvisited by

travellers

Grand preparations at Naples for the return of the court from Palermo..

Public Entry of the King into Naples; attends at a Te Deum; congratu-

lations on his return...

Ferdinand IV. King of Naples, his personal appearance, exterior deport-
ment, mental qualifications; notable instances of his ignorance;
specimens of an amiable disposition; his popularity...

The Queen of Naples; takes her seat in the privy council; her influence

in the government ..

....

Defects in the ancient government of Naples; some reforms under Fer-
dinand IV.................

Brilliancy of the court; illumination of the City; grand appearance of
the Abbey of San Martino ....

Good order and conduct of the Neapolitans during the illumination and

rejoicings..

PAGE.

The Lazzaroni described; their manners, habits; origin of the name;
their resistance to the establishment of the inquisition; their public
spirit, humanity..

The debauchery of the Neapolitans; remarks on; circumstances respect-
ing, and probable causes of .....

Assassinations at Naples less frequent than formerly.

Drunkenness uncommon; general character of the Neapolitans better

than commonly represented

Departure from Naples.....

Arrival at Capua; the ancient Town; its ruins and history; the modern

Town....

Scene of the manœuvres of Fabius and Hannibal...

A parting view of the happy Campania .....

Revisit the Grove where Cicero fell; a shepherd reading at his tomb.... 61

Slow mode of travelling among the ancients; accommodations on the

road.....

Return to Rome

CHAP. III.

Magnificence of Ancient Rome-its Cloaca-Aqueducts-Viæ-Forums

-Temples-Therma-Theatres-Instances of private Magnificence

-Greatness the Characteristic of Roman Taste at all Times.

The Aqueducts of Ancient Rome; various particulars respecting; reser-

voirs of water called lakes; numerous fountains ...

78

Roman roads; extraordinary solidity of their construction; remarks on;

near the city bordered with tombs ...

81

The Romans originally derived their arts and sciences from the

Etrurians

85

....

Magnificence of the Roman buildings contrasted with the Greek........ 86

Forums in Rome; their number, uses, names, and descriptions

87

PAGE.

Different Porticos at Rome: account of, with their founders and orna-

ments....

91

Thermæ, or public baths in Rome; their number and destinations.

Attention of the Romans to cleanliness.....

97

Temples; their number; additional remarks on; the Temple of Jupiter

Capitolinus, the Temple of Peace; the uses to which applied; its

origin and destruction....

98

Extraordinary magnificence of the Romans even in their temporary build-

ings; instances of......

102

103

Magnificence of the Ancient Romans rivalled by the Modern.........

Grand undertakings of the last Pontiff; his noble project for the defence

of Italy against the French....

104

CHAP. IV.

Observations on Ancient Names-on Roman Architecture-Defects of

the Modern Style-Progress of the Art-Papal Government—its

Character-Consequences of the French Invasion and Preponder-

ance on the present and future State of Rome.

PAGE.

The ancient names of the streets and public buildings in Rome; remarks

on the propriety of restoring...

107

On the reparation of some of the ancient edifices....

109

Modern public buildings; propriety of fashioning them according to the

ancient models; capricious absurdities of modern Roman archi-

tecture...

110

Roman architecture considered under five eras...

111

Remarks on the new system of architecture; first conformity of to the

principles of the ancient; its subsequent deviations from, parti-

cularly by Borromini ...

117

The Roman government, a despotism, but mildly administered......... 119

Remarks on the union of the civil and ecclesiastical character in the
Pope.....

ib.

the people......

Temporal sovereignty of the Popes originally founded on the consent of

Obligations of Rome to her Pontiffs...