became so pestiferous that we felt ourselves compelled to make our escape, or resign ourselves to suffocation. As we opened the door, the steam issued with us like smoke from the crater of a volcano.

While we stood by the repairing barouche, a priest came forth from the house we had quitted. He was a young, healthy, and good looking man, with long and beautiful hair divided on his forehead, and flowing gracefully on each shoulder, in the style of Raphael's head. He addressed us in his native tongue, but finding us ignorant in that point, changed his eloquence to the Latin language; and now being understood, he poured forth with such vehemence and inconsistency that we soon discovered he had been paying his devotions to a certain heathen deity, from whom he had received a most spirited afflatus; so much so, that he seemed to forget both himself and the dignity of his profession. Indeed he pestered us so adhesively that we were glad to shake him off, even by darting back into the apartment of the postmaster. He followed us in, proceeding as most men do who take an enemy into their mouth to steal away their senses; and after a most tormenting half hour, he at last said something in his native tongue, unintelligible to us, but so level to the understanding of the rest, that the females made their escape as if a shot had fallen amongst them. Our host seemed extremely angry; and, I suppose, intimated to the ecclesiastic that he desired his absence; for he turned round with a sullen reluctance, and proceeding towards the door, cast his eye on the painted effigy of our Saviour and his Mother, He stopped suddenly, and with the greatest reverence crossed himself several times, and then left the place.

I cannot say the example of this pastor was very edifying to his flock, it being now one of their most sacred fasts in the Greek calendar, when it is infamous amongst the Russians not to abstain from all strong liquors. This man was a secular priest; and, I am told that many of the lower rank of that order are rather free in their modes of life. Not so with those of higher dignity: they are celebrated for qualifications quite the contrary; for purity of heart and sanctity of manners. I will evince my respect to them, by giving you the opinion of one who knew them well.

"The superior clergy at this time are men whose simplicity, candour, and primitive modesty, would have illustrated the first ages of christianity. Their way of living, from the nature of their order, being all monks, is very rigid. And as it precludes them from mixing with the world, it is not to be wondered at that few of them should have that easiness of address which a frequent intercourse with society only can give. But their manners are gentle as their life is austere. Biassed by early education, they are perhaps a little too partial to the ceremonies of their own church; but they are far from being bigoted, or thinking there can be no salvation out of the pale of their own communion. Their studies are almost totally directed to their profession, as no instance has yet been known of any of them excelling in the arts or sciences."

Not doubting but that you are as tired of the pastor of Klin as we were, I shall bid the subject adieu; and having once more reentered our skating cradles, say farewel, till I again salute you from this city, with the beauties and hospitalities

of Mosco.

LETTER XVIII.

Mosco, March, 1806.

AFTER six days and nights of weary travel, we arrived at Mosco on the twenty-ninth of February: but the weather being foggy, so entirely enveloped the city as to conceal a view from us which, I am told, for magnificence is not exceeded in Europe.

On delivering our letters of introduction, we were welcomed with all the courtesies of friendship; and at the first salutation, were made to forget, by the true politeness of this generous people, that we were strangers. I have heard it said that hospitality is a mark of barbarism. On what this opinion is grounded I cannot guess: but certainly it had not its foundation at Mosco; for I never saw, in any part of the world, such general polish of manners as in this city. Their hospitality appears to me to arise from a confidence in the friend who gives the introduction that he will not recommend any person unworthy of their notice; not doubting this, their benevolence hesitates not to receive the introduced with kindness: and from their love of society, if he prove agreeable he soon finds himself on the most easy and pleasant terms with a large and elegant acquaintance. Hence, I am led to consider this disqualifying remark on hospitality, as one of those commonplaces which the ignorant adopt on the faith of others; and those others, if they be equally unreflecting, can only promulgate the like dogmas, as an excuse for some failing in themselves.

Fortunately for us, our arrival and the prince Bagration's was nearly at the same time. We received cards from the English club (an association only so in name, not three of our nation belonging to it) inviting us to a dinner which they gave to the prince in honour of his late gallant conduct with the armies.

The house appropriated to this entertainment was a palace which formerly had been the residence of prince Gorgorin

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Its suite of splendid saloons, and the great marble hall in which dinner was served, were fitted up with the most unsparing magnificence. At half past two o'clock the governor, general Becklachoff, and the prince Bagration entered. The latter was immediately surrounded by all in the room, eager to express their joy at his presence, and congratulations to their country in being yet blessed with the preservation of such

a man.

He is below the middle stature; of a dark complexion, deeply tinged with the climates in which he has served. His eye is small, quick and penetrating. His nose, a very high aquiline; and his face perfectly Georgian (he being of that country), expresses the most charming affability and sweetness. His demeanor is in unison with his countenance, being demonstrative of a modesty as winning as it is admirable in so idolized a character. He was dressed in a uniform wholly of green, covered with the insignia of many orders, stars, and a

red ribbon.

The dinner was conducted with the nicest decorum; and the healths of the emperor and the prince Bagration were drunk with the greatest enthusiasm. In fact, I never saw a society of Russians so animated; and more than once it reminded me of similar meetings in honour of our glorious friend and hero sir Sidney Smith. Indeed the sentiment was so much the same, and the idea of one great man so naturally suggested those of others, that several of the Russian nobility present asked me if it were not like the fêtes we dedicate to our heroes. I acknowledged the resemblance; but inwardly gave them the palm of general politeness; a grace in which this assembly far exceeded ours: I never in my life experienced so much attention as was there paid to us as strangers and Englishmen. Three quarters of an hour finished the repast; `previous to which a band of singers from a regiment quartered in the city, sung an air in honour of the prince. The words, I here present to you in a prose translation.

Friendship unites us here. Joy captivates each heart! Truth herself declares, that he is the hero who sacrifices himself to the emperor and the empire, despising envy and malice, and who dedicates himself to justice.

Chorus. Let us entwine him a crown of laurels, for he merits to wear it.

Unassisted by fortunate circumstances, he wrested honour from the arms of peril. He added not single rays to the glory of Russia, but surrounded it with a thousand beams. Hope dawned wherever his form appeared. Hosts failed to make him shrink; and with a few he overcame numbers.

Chorus. Let us entwine him a crown of laurels, for he merits to wear it.

A hero's soul is satisfied with gratitude, all other recompense is foreign to his feelings. He despises luxury and pride, and all the vanities of the world. To serve mankind is his aim, and their happiness his reward. They who reap the renown of virtue, lose it not in the grave! Chorus. Let us entwine him a crown of laurels, for he merits to wear it.

Every regiment has its own vocal band. They sing in parts, accompanied by an instrument resembling a guitar, called a Ballalaika. The strains of this musical tribute to the prince were wild and piercing; something like the tones of the Eolian harp, when the wind is disturbed and gusty. He received the song and the plaudits with a grace which again brought our Cœur de Lion before me. The air over, part of the company withdrew to cards; and part (in which latter choice I united) preferred a saloon, where several vocal and instrumental military bands were stationed, still further to amuse the prince during the intervals of conversation. We had also the hornmusic; which, as it is strange and curious, I will describe.

It was invented by a Prince Gallitzin, in the year 1762. This instrument consists of forty persons, whose life is spent in blowing one note. The sounds produced are precisely similar to those of an immense organ; with this difference, that each note seems to blend with its preceding and following one; a circumstance that causes a blunt sensation to the ear, and gives a monotony to the whole. However, the effect possesses much sublimity, when the performers are unseen: but when they are visible, it is impossible to silence reflections which jar