against in the young and inexperienced. To the immortal tzar Peter are they indebted for this liberal code.

The dress of the nuns of the Divitchy is a black habit with wide sleeves; the whole lined with reddish brown. A black velvet cap fitting close to their shaven heads, coming down over the ears, and under the chin in a sort of bandage. The novices have a cap pointed at the top. Their hair is plaited, and hangs down behind an immense length: it is fastened in the pole of the neck by a piece of brown taffeta which shades half the queue as a sort of curtain. Their robe is of black cloth with tight sleeves, and has also a cape. The fashion of the hair marks the unsworn vestal state, as the vowed nuns are deprived of theirs.

My tonsured conductress showed me several cases of holy relics. They consisted of bones, wood, teeth, and pieces of wearing apparel, curiously preserved and highly venerated. She also led me into the apartments which had been inhabited by the princess Sophia. I entered the cell wherein her haughty mind so often brooded in disappointment over her fallen greatness; I looked through the very windows from which she had beheld the execution of numbers of her party, and particularly of three of her most intimate confederates, who were hanged on gibbets within a few yards of the convent wall. Peter ordered this horrible scene to be performed before her own eyes, as a small punishment for the ambition which had conspired against his life, and drawn his subjects into rebellion.

These gloomy rooms have lately been newly fitted up; but much of their old furniture remains; particularly the religious pictures which adorned the walls in her time; and other holy articles necessary to a nun's cell. Having gone through the whole of the church, I took my leave of my saintly conductress, thanking her most sincerely for the trouble she had taken in walking so long, and for the patience with which she answered my numerous questions.

Soon after I left the vicinity of the Divitchy, I was invited by prince W to go down to his country residence on the day of the Holy Trinity. It being the fête de village of the prince, I expected much rustic festivity; for general entertain

ment, I could be at no loss, as my illustrious host is not only master of all the graces of hospitality, but eminent for learning and talents. His palace is finely situated, and built of stone with great taste and splendor; possessing every accommodation for the gayest amusements and the profoundest study.

When I arrived, the whole family, visitors and vassals, were assembled in the church; and when I joined the party, were arranged in a circle before the holy screen. The pavement was strewn with flowers and green herbs, each person holding in his hand a bouquet. One was also presented to me on my entrance. All the peasantry were dressed in their best, and decorated with this vernal ornament. Three priests officiated, the superior of them being a man of a most venerable aspect. Many prayers were read and anthems sung; after which a sermon was delivered with great judgment and feeling: at least so it seemed to me, from the energy of the preacher and the riveted attention of the congregation. Towards the conclusion the whole party, as well as the two assistant ecclesiastics knelt down, holding the flowers up to their faces.

I could not learn any satisfactory explanation of the religious use of these nosegays; some telling me they were brought as the first offerings of spring; others, that they were meant to wipe away the tears which they shed during the service. I fancy that this practice, like that of giving eggs at Easter, is now known by the custom only, the origin being entirely lost in the lapse of time.

The ceremony finished by the congregation kissing the cross, and receiving the benediction and holy water.

The sacred duties of the day over, the villagers prepared to adjourn to their vernal sports; but alas, both I and they were disappointed in this! It rained heavily, and continued so unremittingly, that this part of the entertainment was obliged to be given up, and the peasantry, after giving a few blank looks to the watery heavens, feasted plentifully within doors. Well charged with brandy, and covered with gay ribbons, at an early hour, they very joyously and contentedly returned home.

A splendid dinner, and a most delightful ball, closed the day in the hospitable halls of the prince. Amongst the guests I

met with a gentleman of extraordinary mental acquirements. His name was so difficult of pronunciation that I cannot recollect it; but, in our conversation, he gave me a little account of the origin of Mosco, which I have remembered rather more correctly.

It was founded by the son of Vladimir, on some confiscated lands originally belonging to an imperious nobleman who had offended this prince. They consisted of morasses intersected with branches, or streamlike ditches from the rivers Moskva and the Neglia; near the conflux of which rose a hill, commanding the surrounding country, and well protected by the encircling marshes. It was richly covered with trees; and its environs of plain and forest rendered the situation doubly romantic. The young prince saw and became enamoured of the spot, and immediately ordered a mansion to be built there; in which he afterwards passed the greatest part of his time. Few advances towards its becoming a city, took place during his life. But undoubtedly to this palace is Muscovy indebted for its capital. It was a point of attraction around which houses' and streets gradually assembled until they spread themselves to a large town.

Daniel, the son of the sainted Alexander Nefsky, was also enraptured with the situation; and not only increased his predecessor's buildings, but added, for its security, palisadoes and a deep ditch. Thus did it continue, growing by degrees within its own boundary, till the succession of Dimitri Ivanovitch Donskoy, who employed an Italian architect to erect a strong and well defended wall. This was accomplished towards the close of the fifteenth century. The same prince embellished the city with several new and noble churches.

Mosco has often felt the miseries of war. In the year 1384, Tamerlane stormed the place, and held it for some time. During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Tartars again overran the greater part of Russia; and the old capital with the rest. But Ivan Vassilovitch drove them thence: and to him much of its succeeding splendor and consequence may be attributed. From this period it became the residence of the Tzars. I fancy few empires have had the seat of government

so frequently changed as Russia; for few empires were ever so extensive. From its magnitude it comprised many independent principalities; each of which, according to the ambition or genius of their respective sovereigns, at different times held all the others in subjection. Thus Kief, Vladimir, Twer, Novgorod, Mosco, and St. Petersburgh, may all boast of having governed the country. The whole extent of this vast empire being now firmly fixed under the sceptre of the Romanoff family; and as it aspires to naval consequence, St. Petersburgh is likely to remain for ever the capital of Russia; unless some political earthquake shake the north with as dire a fury as it has done the south. And, to avert which from our old ally, every honest Englishman will unite his prayers with those of, your faithful friend.

LETTER XXIII.

Mosco, June, 1806.

IT being a most sultry day, the prominent object of my present feelings (I will not dignify bodily perceptions by the name of thoughts) is the weather. And, as I write to you as I would speak, you must take the subjects, dull or entertaining, just as they rise. The weather, then, being a very interesting investigation to us English, I shall indulge you with a few observations on the climate of Russia. Having passed both a winter and a summer under its skies, I consider myself tolerably learned on my proposed theme.

St. Petersburgh is in lat. 59° 56′ N. Although surrounded by flat and marshy lands, that city is by no means unhealthy. The air is uncontaminated by pestilential vapours, as care is taken to drain the swamps; which otherwise, with the Augean additions from the cleanliness of the lower inhabitants, might prove dreadfully noxious. The police manages all this with admirable diligence; and maugre the natural love which the canaille seem to have to wallow in an uncleansed stye, I never saw a race

more healthy than the common people are in Russia; and were it not for their excessive use of brandy, I believe the rigour of the climate, and their constant exercise, would prolong their days to an almost patriarchal date.

The higher orders, from indulgence, luxurious living, little exercise and hot stoves, are very susceptible of colds: indigestions, unwieldiness, and shortened lives, are the natural consequence. This is the case with most; but many, who are aware of the ill effects of such customs, discard them; and are as active and hale as the stoutest of our countrymen.

Hence you will observe, that a climate is not to be judged by the general appearance of the people of fortune residing under its influence; habits of their own counteract its effects. It is from the peasantry we must draw our judgment: and I will venture to say, that in no country I ever saw more robust men than I met with in the natives of Russia.

There are only five degrees between Mosco and St. Petersburgh. The climate of the old capital is even more salubrious than the new. Being situated on high grounds, it has a great advantage. Two fine rivers run through its centre. The streets are all so spacious that no foul air can stagnate in any one of them. The atmosphere is generally clear, and the weather settled. In summer, though it is hot, there are no noxious vapours to render it dangerous; and in winter the air is so pure, so bright and exhilarating, that you seem to inhale the very elixir of life into your lungs. It is impossible to describe the animating feelings which these ethereal breathings excite in the breast: and as the bath of ether, through which we move, embraces every part, it seems to brace each nerve, and fill us with a spring of life enchanting and exhaustless.

In the following table I give you the length of the days at the summer and winter solstice. For instance, when in winter the day is the shortest, the sun rises and sets according to this calculation; differing only in the summer, by the day being of the greatest length when this order is reversed.