numerous are the institutions she has founded and endowed for all descriptions of the wretched! And, countless as they seem to be, so sincere is her goodness, that she is not merely their benefactress; but the kind superintendant, to see that every thing is conducted according to her generous design. In short, she expends almost the whole of her revenue in deeds of charity: and as her time is also dedicated to the same heavenly purpose, thousands owe their health, comfort, and exis tence to her. Her life is, in all respects, worthy the imitation of the greatest princesses; for it is consistent throughout: no lip opens to name her, but unfeigned blessings follow. She is not more revered as an empress, than adored for her virtues: hers is the empire of the heart: and the amiable qualities of her imperial son place his on the same foundation.

Again I have travelled from my errand hither. But female excellence, who can resist? It would carry both thee and me from all the pictures in the universe; ay, from Indus to the. pole, or from the pole to Indus! So, without further apology, I shall once more recur to the resemblance of the great Peter.

The portrait in question, is said to have been painted from its illustrious original when he was at Paris. The artist is a Frenchman. He has placed the tzar on horseback; and dressed him in a silk coat, decorated with the order of St. André. The character of the hero is lost, and the Parisian dancingmaster is here à cheval. I came, I saw, and turned my back! for as nothing appeared amid this trumpery affectation worthy either the monarch, or one who was to commemorate his great ness, I left the room. Though, as I retreated, my eye fell on two exquisite marble busts of Henri Quatre and Sully; personages more deserving the society in which they were placed, than the picture was of its original.

Amongst various specimens of art in this palace I was shown two admirable Vernets, of the largest size, and finest style of his pencil; and finished with greater richness, than any other of his works that ever fell under my observation. Such being the result of my journey, I returned to St. Petersburgh, pleased with every part of my visit to the palace, but the very object which led me thither.

My drive homewards was as little pleasant as master Phæton's, when he whipped through the burning spheres. Cold we can elude, by warm involvements. But heat, marrow-piercing heat! who can escape its fiery darts? Clothes, carriages, walls; nothing can exclude its scorching rays; they mingle with the very air we breathe: and to shut our mouths against them, is to die by one sort of suffocation, because we will not endure the less mortal effects of the other. Besides the weather being so insufferably hot, the days are long even to painfulness. At midnight we may see to write by the light of the sky: and not from moon or stars, but by the beams of day still lingering in the heavens. Indeed, during what are called the longest days here, there is not more than two hours in the twenty-four without seeing the sun: and that privation does not produce darkness; as a something brighter than our twilight remains.

Were it not for the tremendous heat (not to be exceeded, I believe, in the West Indies), and the myriads of musquitoes that swarm from the marshy grounds, this unvarying sunshine might have its charms; but as it is, we cannot but sigh for

"The grotto's cool retreat, the forest's fresh'ning shade!" And as I rival the poor panting Cephalus every hour with exclamations of veni aura, I hasten, as often as may be possible to meet the courted breeze amidst the groves of Streina or Peterhoff. Most of the British merchants possess beautiful villas on this road; as well as do the nobility who, having places in the government, constantly abide near the residence; as their duty never permits them to quit the vicinity of the court, unless by the especial leave of the emperor, to visit for a short time in each year their estates at a distance. The romantic islands of the Neva, being within the neighbourhood of St. Petersburgh, afford some of them very charming retreats: and as you row along the river, you see its banks embellished by numbers of these beautiful houses.

The emperor has his favourite summer residence on the isle Kammenoiostroff. It is a pretty simple palace, fitted up with elegance and comfort; and opposite to it two yachts are always at anchor, ready to obey his majesty's or the empress's com

mands, whenever they wish to pass upon the river. This side of St. Petersburgh certainly possesses the most beautiful environs. The variety of wooded scenery, the numerous palaces and splendid mansions embosomed in trees; and myriads of boats of every description on the Neva, some filled with boors, and others decorated with the gaiety of Venetian gondolas; under an azure sky, produce a tout ensemble, not to be expected in regions of the iron north.

The gardens of the venerable count Strogonoff are in this quarter: they are charmingly laid out; possessing every beauty which nature assisted, not overpowered, by art, can bestow. Here numbers of the fashionable world assemble most evenings at about five o'clock, and wandering from grove to grove, which hang with every fragrant and delicious production of the east; they amuse themselves with conversation and the scene, till music recals them to the lawns, where refreshments are prepared; and when night closes in, the finest fireworks terminate the pleasures of the evening.

In a picturesque and well chosen spot is placed a monument of antiquity, said to have been the tomb of Homer. It was brought from one of the islands of the Archipelago; and is accurately described by Monsieur le Chevalier sur le Troad. The basso relievos on its sides, and on each end, certainly refer to the events celebrated in the Iliad; and particularly to the exploits of Achilles. The sarcophagus is of white marble; but the sculpture, though possessing taste and beauty, is not so fine as other specimens we have in England. I forget from whom the count purchased it; but I believe the ingenious French author informs his readers. It is so long since I turned over the book, that most of the contents have escaped me. All I recollect is, that at the time of reading it I was much pleased; and I recommend you, for the sake of better information respecting Homer's tomb, to seek for le Chevalier to supply my deficiency.

I must confess, as I stood over this reputed tomb of the first of poets, that I felt none of those enthusiasms which I believe would have affected me on the spot where his remains were laid. I cannot reconcile to myself, devotion to genius with the sacrilege of disturbing the repository of its ashes. Removing

Homer's tomb from its original situation, seems to have arisen from no more respect, to him, than the thieves intended to show reverence to Petrarch, when they stole away his bones to sell separately as classic relics. It having been brought to sale, I am not surprised at the fine taste of the count wishing to purchase so extraordinary a piece of antiquity; but certainly the place to feel Homer's tomb, should have been over Homer's grave. It was so Homer's example taught. He did not send mariners to steal away the monument of Achilles from the promontory of Sigeum: but he travelled thither himself. He stood by his hero's grave; and while invoking the spirit within, his own mighty genius burst the confines of the tomb, and the hero appeared! The vision passed before the poet, clad in arms and in glory, and he beheld the light no more. Insufferable brightness drank his visual ray; but lit up all within, with heaven's immortal fires. And Alexander too, that powerful monarch, might not he who uprooted empires, have easily raised from the ground a block of marble; and ordered the monument of his often-boasted model, the great Achilles, to have been brought to Macedon? But no; he also went to Sigeum to pay his vows to the illustrious shade, and placing a crown upon the tomb, exclaimed: "Achilles, thou wert thrice happy! Happy in thy valiant life, happy in such a friend as Patroclus, and happy in such a poet as Homer to immortalize thy memory!"

After this beautiful apostrophe, it will not be very mal-apropos to repeat my claim to one of these happinesses, by subscribing myself your faithful friend.

LETTER XXVIII.

St. Petersburgh, September, 1806.

I AM going to describe a scene that harrowed my heart. I have been to witness the execution of the KNOUT, to a height of torture which very seldom is now inflicted. The lenity of the emperor Alexander's disposition will not allow death, or the severer degrees of punishment to be adjudged to any of his subjects, but on the most decided proofs of terrible crimes. In the present instance, the guilt of the culprit was unquestionable, and he was regularly tried and sentenced.

The instruments and manner of performing this horrible execution, I have already described in my account of visiting the prison at Mosco. The unhappy wretch whom his crimes destined to be an example to mankind, was an istvostchick (or coachman) to count Ablenoffsky, a Polish nobleman, whom he inhumanly murdered one night, in bringing him from a party in the country. He effected his death by means of the key used for screwing the bolts of the carriage. The vehicle being a droshky, there was no other servant but the coachman..

At a conveniently dark and sequestered spot, the villain turned suddenly on his master, and striking him a stunning blow with the iron instrument, seized him, and finished the murder by strangling him with the reins. Having rifled the dead count of every valuable about his person, he left the body and the carriage, and made his escape. Morning discovered the horrid scene. Suspicion did not hesitate to point to the real perpetrator, and a pursuit was immediately ordered. Officers of justice went in every direction; and by their unwearied activity found him, after a search of several days, some verstsfrom the Ladoga lake.

The place generally allotted for public executions, is near the Neva; being an open and muddy plain. When I arrived, a few companies of grenadiers were drawn up in line; and the natives were pouring upon the ground in multitudes. The gravity of their rough visages, mingling with the fierce visage of