LETTER XLI.

Sala, March, 1808.

HAVING visited all above ground, we now proposed to explore the nether regions; and accordingly set forth for Dunamora, the nearest mine, and particularly celebrated for its iron and furnaces. Its depth is above eighty fathoms. The distance being little more than four Swedish miles from. Upsal, we soon arrived at this interesting spot.

As we drove along and approached the vicinity of the mine, we were entertained by the picturesque effects of the villages inhabited by the miners, the forges and furnaces for working and smelting the iron when brought above the surface of the earth. These are on a very extensive scale, and employ daily about three hundred persons. On arriving at the mouth of this entrance to Hades, I found the monarch of the scene, the director, more than civil; the introduction of our archiepiscopal friend produced us the most polite attention; and having examined all around, our intelligent conductor attended us to view the wonders of the abyss.

The descent is not like that usually found, the opening being of a large extent, instead of the well-like perforation of common mines. The mode of passage is in casks, fixed to large cables, which are raised and lowered by means of horses. When they are filled with ore, the workmen, standing upon the edges of the vehicle, and having their arms clasped round the rope, ascend with the greatest composure. I occupied one half of the bucket appointed for my carriage, and the director the other, carrying bundles of wood in order to light us through the caverns. Mr. F- -s descended in a second machine of the same sort.

The depth from the mouth to the surface of the water, now congealed, at the bottom, is sixty-five fathoms; the further depth through the ice to the old base, is twenty more. I was surprised at such a subterraneous mass of waters, when my conductor explained the circumstance, by informing me, that

about twelve or fourteen years ago a neighbouring lake rose to so great a height as to inundate that part of the country, and overflow the mine. The accident, for a time, stopped the labours of the workmen. A steam engine was constructed to draw off the waters so far as to enable the men to dig the ore. The water is drawn from the bottom by a wheel twenty-two yards in diameter, and is afterwards conveyed along an aqueduct two thousand five hundred yards in length. By these means ten fathoms of water being annually discharged, in the course of two years they will be able again to work in its ancient bottom.

I think I never beheld so sublime a sight as struck my eyes when, midway suspended between the upper and nether world, I looked towards the distant sky, or downwards into regions of a lurid night. The miners, with lighted torches, attended us through the various excavations and dark caverns which yawned from all quarters of the abyss. During our exploring walk we were suddenly arrested by a most tremendous sound, which, for a moment, struck us with undescribable horror; the earth shook under our feet; and we looked, I cannot tell how; but our conductor smiled, and told us, it was only the men blasting the rocks for the ore. As he spoke, the noise roared along the black avenues of the mine, reechoing through the higher vaults like the loud bellowings of thunder. To afford a shelter for the workmen during this hazardous part of their duty, a small retreat is constructed of thick beams; and here they retire in safety to await the expected explosion, which hurls the rent fragments with furious violence in every di

rection.

The extent of the mine is about eighteen hundred feet. Large as it is, the preeminence it bears in the eye of taste, arises from a peculiarity differing entirely from all others in the kingdom. The whole of the mine is laid open to the sky, having more the appearance of a gigantic cleft in the earth made by some convulsion of nature, than an effect of the industry of man. The people below had kindled a fire, the gray smoke from which made a picturesque contrast to the deep gloom that pervaded the rocky precipices: nearer the

mouth, the bright light of the sun's rays shone upon the cliffs and hanging icicles, which glittered like so many masses of brilliants. The descending and ascending ropes, equal to a stout cable, seemed the finest cobweb; and the huge projecting rocks looked as if every explosion would shake them from their already trembling situation, and crush the labouring wretches below. My little sketch will convey the picture more accurately than my pen.

In one quarter of the mine is a sort of well staircase constructed of wood. It is composed of ladders, steps, and landing places in the rock, at various heights, which gradually communicate with the top; a mode of ascending and descending by far too fatiguing for novices. To those who are fond of mineralogy this mine is doubly interesting, as many curious and beautiful specimens may be procured. Not being of this philosophical class, I remounted with unburthened pockets; and bidding a grateful farewel to our attentive conductor, we returned, well pleased with our morning's researches, to Upsal.

Before we proceeded to Sala, I expressed to the archbishop my wish to visit the Mora Steinar, which I understood was at some little distance from the city. But his grace told me the sight would not now repay me for my trouble. It was originally a collection of stones placed, with a particular arrangement, in the midst of a field; and within the circle of which the kings of Sweden, in the barbarous ages, used to be elected, and receive the homage of their nobility. One only of the stones has any inscription, and that is in Runic characters. By the use to which tradition appropriates the Mora Steinar, we might rather guess that our Stonehenge had been dedicated to similar purposes, than that it was, as some suppose, either a burying place, or a temple of the gods. There, it is probable, on the extensive plain adjoining, the assembled aborigines of this island elected their chief, and within those colossal bulwarks swore fealty to his arms. This rude kind of architecture, though generally spoken of as being peculiar to the northern nations, is not confined to them. I remember (I cannot exactly

tell where, but I think in some old Greek author), reading a description of similar remains in ancient Greece.

The archbishop gave me so miserable an account of the Swedish relics of this kind, informing me that a worse than Goth had removed the Mora Steinar from its native situation, and placed it some where else in what fashion he pleased. Hence, to see its original disposition was impossible, and the visit would have ended in mortification.

Early in the morning of the twenty-fourth we left Upsal, in our usual sledge conveyances; and at a very late hour the same evening arrived at Sala, the city whence the great silver minederives its name. The road was unvaried, differing little from that to Dunamora, excepting here and there a few masses of granite, similar to those in Finland, broke the level surface.

This little city far exceeds, in neatness and regularity, the more capacious one I have just left. It is twenty-eight English miles from Upsal, and stands very pleasantly towards the west. Its church is large and respectable, having handsome decorations, and a good altarpiece; the subject is the Last Supper; it is well executed, and superbly framed in carved work and gilding. The place or square, is extensive and clean, a jewel of the first water in my eyes! The houses are commodious and even elegant; and the whole city wears the air of prosperity and cheerfulness.

The fashions of the natives may vary as I penetrate farther into the interior and less civilized regions; but here, the style of dress for the lower ranks is much the same as that worn by the Welsh peasantry. The women wear a similar coloured handkerchief over their heads, tying it under the chin; also the old Cambrian wollen bedgowns, blue striped petticoat, red stockings, heeled shoes, and large buckles. They cannot boast of beauty. The men, habited like our Welsh boors, are not more graceful figures, being strong and robust, but in features as rugged as their native rocks. However, rough as their outsides may be, they have honest souls. I conversed with many, and a great pleasure it was to me to observe the patriotic spirit which spoke from all their lips. The peasant world seem nerved from the heart against the general enemy. But, where I least

expected it, I find a falling off; and turning from the fields to the city, my gratification is turned to pain, at hearing the alarm of the higher ranks; at seeing their despondency for fear of being left any time to the national resources:-"To England we look," they say, "as our salvation from the surrounding enemies: she must be prompt, or we shall fall like the rest." I am glad that this is not the language of Stockholm, or indeed of the country at large: and a few despairing citizens are lost in the enthusiasm of the mass. However, as all do anticipate the arrival of British auxiliaries, I hope it will not be long before they appear, to support the brave, and rid of their panics the less courageous part of the community.

In the neighbourhood of Sala resides the count de Swerin, a nobleman sprung from one of the best families in Sweden, and one not more respected for his birth, than revered as the best of men. He is a clergyman! A rare instance of a Swedish nobleman assuming the sacerdotal character. Having a letter of introduction, I did myself the honour of calling at his house, but was not so fortunate as to make his acquaintance, he being gone on a visit some miles distant. However, the countess received my friend and myself with graceful hospitality. She is beautiful and accomplished, and showed us her little family, whose lovely health, and sweet manners, were the best proofs of her own excellence, and of the happiness of her husband.

The mine is about half an English mile from the town. It was once, I understand, more valuable than at present; but even now it is an exchequer of wealth to the crown: a kind of huge royal cruse (I would say the widow's, were I transported ages back, and writing in the reign of Margaret de Valdemar;) for it has so long been worked, and yet replenishes the kingdom with exhaustless stores. When it was first opened, no tradition can tell; its existence seems primeval with the kingdom.

The machines here employed are more extensive than those of Dunamora, and are all hydraulical. Some are of an immense diameter; the largest, I believe, measures between forty and fifty feet. The aqueduct for conveying away the water is very