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LETTER XLVII.

Stockholm, May, 1808.

THIS delightful month was hailed on its first morn as it is in Russia, by merrymakings that reach from the court to the cottage: all the carriages in Stockholm paraded in procession backwards and forwards through a park not far distant from the town.

Much beauty was present in the equipages; and not a little amongst the pedestrians of humbler ranks, who flocked in crowds to see the cavalcade. But fair as the ladies were, yet the splendor of the scene was far inferior to that I had shared in its anniversaries of the two years before; and for loveliness, you will not wonder that I should, in that point also, find it halt behind dear Mosco, and its dearer inhabitants.

This custom is a very odd one; but perhaps it was instituted on a similar political principle to that of Russia: if so, the pleasure may have succeeded, though not the profit; for certainly the carriage-building trade has stood still these sixty years. The other festivities, in both countries, (nay, we still have them in the remoter countries of England,) I make no doubt originated in festivals dedicated to the floral deity of the pagan ages. The May garlands; the goat dressed in flowers, and led about by husbandmen in white, are sufficient proofs of their heathen origin.

Her majesty, as well as the other branches of the royal family, were in the string of carriages. She looked charmingly in the splendid attire she had adopted to hail the season, so sweet an emblem of herself; but her graces are of too fine a texture to bear the encumbrance of much ornament: to use the threadbare quotation (because it speaks truth of her,)

"Thoughtless of beauty, she is beauty's self;
And is, when unadorned, adorned the most!"

Near this city is an extremely pretty spot, charmingly diversified with rocks, wood, and water. Here stands Haga, an elegant small mansion, built in the English taste. It is now the favourite retreat of the present king; and the situation was so admired by his august father, that, a short time prior to his death, he commenced building a superb palace on the grounds. When he fell, the plan was dropped; and the comparative cottage remains as the royal residence. The gardens of this minor palace, like those of Kensington with us, are open to the inhabitants of Stockholm; and on Sundays they generally drive thither, and in various gay groups promenade for hours.

The grounds are so romantically disposed, as to suit all fancies: some parts are open lawn, and bright terraces; others, deeply secluded shades, where you may walk from morn to eve without meeting a soul. As sauntering through pure air has ever been one of my greatest pleasures, and Haga being only an English mile and a half from the town, I used to go thither many days in the week, when I had all the groves to myself; and often, strolling about with my book in my hand, I have met the fair majesty of Sweden with one of her children, enjoying, as myself, the sweet day, without any guards but her own innocence and dignity. It was then I saw her all lovely in a simple attire, and looking in motion and tender graces the very perfection of female kind.

The departure of the snow has most wonderfully changed the appearance of all around. What was white and cheerless winter a few weeks ago, is now green and smiling spring; the trees are bursting into leaf, the birds sing, and the people have already assumed their summer garments. Bear skins, and the furry hides of other animals, have dropped from the backs of the inhabitants, and when seen in lighter garbs, the former appellations with which we were so apt to compliment them, of Goths and Vandals, never enter our heads. Hence we see,' . though there be some wit in leaving nature unadorned, there is none in rendering her hideous by loads of ugly clothes. So little do people in general understand this distinction, that I have heard a man reply to a dowdy woman's apology for a dirty dis

habille, by quoting the very words I have so royally, and surely, properly applied.

The streets of Stockholm, now exhibit an apparently quite different race from its former shaggy natives; and with the addition of the military, look very gay.

Since the Russian troops passed the frontiers on the Finland side, the Swedes have gradually fallen back; and several gallant acts have been performed by the little army concentrated under general Klingspor. The gulf of Bothnia being frozen by the severity of the late season, the invading troops spread themselves over the islands. A considerable body of Cossacs and infantry took possession of Aland: you will remember that I mentioned this island as the largest of the precious covey, and the nearest to the coast of Sweden. Here was the scene of the brave pastor's prowess.

The inhabitants, after enduring all the anguish of the bitterest oppression from the Cossacs, eagerly followed the standard held out to them by their spiritual leader; and headed by a dauntless peasant of their own island, they laid the plan for its recovery. He went, as a first measure, to Gripsholm, and brought secretly into the island arms and ammunition. Then prudently awaiting the opening of the waters, that they might have the enemy hemmed in, hopeless of succour, nothing was suspected till the blow was struck. At the appointed moment the attack was made, and an obstinate resistance opposed on the part of the Russians. Several fell on both sides: but the undaunted courage of men fighting for their homes and families prevailed; and the imperial troops, commanded by a field officer, were taken prisoners.

They were immediately, to the number of two hundred and fifty, transported in boats to the main land; whence their brave captors led them in triumph to Stockholm.

The gallant peasant, who had ventured his life to obtain the supplies, and who had led the attack, entered the capital on the eleventh of May, like Cincinnatus, at the head of his conquering legions. His majesty received him on the royal parade, which was filled with the guards, and an immense concourse of people. Before them all, the king took from his own breast the medal

lion of the order of the sword, which hung there by a ribbon, and putting it over the neck of the loyal islander, said: “My sense of your bravery can only be equalled by the united gratitude of Sweden. May your countrymen, while admiring such virtue in so humble an individual, make it their model! And while you see nobles following your example, remember, that when occasions demand, new acts of loyalty and courage will be expected from so brave a man!"

The poor fellow was so overcome by his majesty's condescension, that he burst into tears; and an officer who stood close to the king, told me, that the amiable Gustavus exhibited similar feelings on seeing the sensibility of the honest soul, and taking him warmly by the hand, "God bless you!" said he; "go my brave fellow, secure of your sovereign's esteem; go, and be respected by your native islanders!”

Besides these honours, a handsome gratuity was given to him; and rewards, with general thanks, distributed amongst his brave associates. All were anxious to express their admiration of the valiant group, and they marched from Stockholm with their happy leader, full of delight, and laden with presents. The field-officer this little army took prisoner, had served during the whole of the late campaign on the banks of the Vistula; and there acquired a fame which rendered his present capture doubly mortifying. But he had this consolation (and it is ever sufficient with a man of honour); that he maintained his ground while it was possible to preserve his men from instant destruction: and when he did yield his sword, it was, although to peasants, to men who fought, each with the determination of a hero.

As I am preparing to quit Stockholm, and have so many farewels to say before my departure, you will not be surprised, and perhaps you will not be sorry, that instead of running you forward to another subject, I leave you on the march with the brave Alanders. As long as you drop them short of the isles of Bothnia, very well, both for your own sake, and that of your faithful friend.

LETTER XLVIII.

Gottenburg, June, 1808.

ON the fifth of June, after having been honoured the day before with a most hospitable dinner from his excellency our good minister, and my kind friend Mr. Thornton, I set off from Stockholm at nine in the morning, accompanied by a gentleman lately arrived from St. Petersburgh.

We had previously purchased a small Swedish carriage that precisely held two persons, for which I paid fifty dollars; and having sent our forbode forward, we had no difficulty in getting horses. At two o'clock the following day, we arrived at Arboga; having passed through an extremely wild country. Were it not for the extensive woods which sometimes enveloped us for many miles, I should have declared that the stony deserts of Arabia could not be more stupendous and barren than parts of this province. I never saw, even in Finland, such immense tracks of granite; and in some places they stood so huge and scattered, as to seem, at a little distance, the ruins of vast fortresses, or towns and churches.

Arboga is of considerable extent; and is situated at the extremity of the lake Hejelmoren: it is clean and regularly built; and appears, like Sala, the residence of prosperity and comfort. A large castle stands near the bridge: it is surrounded by a wet ditch. On a part of the ancient walls is now erected a modern house, which may be a convenience to the possessor, but it is the most detestable blemish that could be devised to destroy the otherwise grand effect of this noble fortress. I visited the church, a building of extensive dimensions, but neither very old, nor very interesting. Nothing else in the town being worthy of notice, without further delay we set forward, and again entered avenues of trees most delightfully shading us from the now fervent heat of the sun, and the burning dust that usually attends his chariot wheels.

These woods consist of lofty and umbrageous trees; a beauty

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