the theatrical secret of flourishes of drums and trumpets, and the reports of sundry pieces of ordnance!

Indeed, I believe, my good Lord Hamlet, that even thine own Shakspeare will not be able to check my mirth, should I again hear the regicide-king drinking the health with

For the life of me I shall not be able to forget the cows' bladders, and so with the "ruined feelings" of poor Tilburina, in a burst of laughter must add my peals to those of the ordnance.

Not doubting but that you admire the ingenuity of the invention, I must account to you for its having been necessary. When I first saw it, I was ignorant that it might not have been a particular fancy of the Count Orloff's; but, on enquiry, I found that during the reign of the whimsical Paul, an order was issued that no cannon should ever be fired in the empire but on imperial occasions. This ukase has never been repealed; and as the higher order of nobility had always, until that period, the privilege of discharging guns on their great days, they determined not to give up the martial sound, and therefore elected the cow's bladders in their place.

About five o'clock in the afternoon this firmament of stars made a transit to a race-course two versts from the house. It was arranged in imitation of ours; and the horses started in a similar style, excepting

the appearance of the riders, who neither in neatness nor activity equalled the English jockey. It seemed amusing to the Russians, but to me it was very dull; there being neither spirit in the contest nor sport in the race. The cattle were British, as His Excellency's stud is well

chosen and extensive.

The evening terminated with a superb ball, in which the Countess, as usual, displayed her urbanity and accomplishments. In fact, the day's entertainments were altogether worthy of the charming object of their celebration. I will not tantalize you, who are such an admirer of harmony and grace, and gentlest beauty, with the naming of any of those transcendent fair who were present! And yet why should I not? You are no churl of loveliness, no eastern despot, that will not permit another eye to rest upon the charms of your adoration; so, I will be equally liberal, and shall even tell you that many were the beauteous faces on which my sight banqueted on the sweet Countess's birth-night. One, two, three lovely creatures, who might have rivalled the shepherd of Ida's contending goddesses, were present amidst nymphs almost as fair: but there yet was a planet brighter than even Venus to me; and her name you know, so I need not repeat it here. She was my guiding star through all the mazes of this happy festival; and as I walked or sat by her side, I saw in her all the fascinations of Russia, France and Italy, blended with the interesting modesty of my dear native England.

With so sweet a partner in my hand I must speak a little of the dance here most in fashion: it is called a country dance; but I cannot say that it resembles ours either in figure, music, or sociability. We preferred conversation and surely the conversation of an intelligent and amiable

woman is the most delightful pleasure in nature! Old folks say that the young can never meet without love or matrimony coming on the carpet: so you will not be surprised that in my converse with so many youthful beauties, I should get a little into their secrets.

They tell me that during the single state of the Russian ladies (which I may call their childhood, they generally marry so early), they are held by their parents in the strictest subjection; and in the regal style, are disposed of in marriage according to the will of the ruling powers. From that moment they are free. The parental shackles are thrown off, and they enjoy their liberty in the full plenitude of gaiety and innocence. Their husbands do not controul them with any jealous fears. Ignorant of vice, these charming women may be as lively and as happy as they will. There is a frankness, and even affection, in their manners to their male friends and acquaintance which is particularly attractive; and causes you to feel as if you were living in the patriarchal days, and in the company of half a hundred lovely and endearing sisters.

One custom, however, I must put in my protest against; the common and public use to which the delicate and heavenly seal of friendship and love is diurnally appropriated! It is not sufficient that the fair sex salute each other, or touch your cheek; but no bearded boor meets his fellow, but forty smacks are heard, as though each were sucking cyder through a vent-peg. Every man, young, old, lame, blind, or ever so disgusting, when he kisses the hand of any woman, let her delicacy be ever so nice, or her rank exalted, she must return the salute on his cheek. This is done at every interview, although little intimacy may exist between the parties. When a lady would only cur

tesy a welcome in England, she must kiss it here; a custom which (though we are not ungrateful in its observance) I believe there is not a John Bull of us all that would not feel a little awkward in seeing either his wife, sister, or daughter, do honour with such liberal greetings to his guests. This strange wantoning with the sweetest pledge of tenderness, is here scattered yet more widely immediately after the expiration of the six weeks' fast. The ceremony of giving eggs then commences; and whoever presents one, let him be of ever so low an order, to a lady of whatever high rank, on saying the words Christos vos Christ, must take a kiss from the lady and exchange eggs with her.

The night for the celebration of this custom, being the anniversary of the resurrection of our Lord, a grand ceremony is performed at midnight, in the cathedral of the Kremlin, which is attended by vast multitudes. A picture of our Saviour, which had been previously buried three days before, is raised with great solemnity; and then, as if directed by a stroke of electricity, the congregation all kiss each other without discrimination, and with much riot, bawling the above words. I was not an eye-witness of the scene, being ill; but my friend Hwho beheld, and experienced the labial contaction, first from the lips of a blooming damsel, and next from the whiskers of a grisly boor, described it to me, with what delightful remembrancers you can easily conceive.

Thus far, you may 'understand what is kissing religiously. But so frequently is the rite administered, that had Coriolanus travelled amongst the Russians instead of the Volcii, he must have knocked down half the empire before he would have been allowed to preserve the virgin kiss he

carried back to his Virgilia. Kissing being a sort of system in this country, is conducted in due order, and arranged in classes.

First, the kiss religious. It stands highest in degree, and is of widest privilege, being used only at sacred periods; but during the holy seasons, under its passport, the veriest clown may find his way to the cheek of the loveliest or most illustrious woman in the empire. In fact, it is an absolute passe partout. The second is in my mind the sweetest, and it is the rarest; but it has many a counterfeit, for its soft touch unites in one moment lips, heart, and soul. It is of divine origin; angels embalm the mouth it presses; and it is called — need I name it?—the kiss of love! It is known to exist; but as its delicate nature never allows it to be practised in public, and as my present observations are only made there, you cannot reasonably expect that I should say a word more on the subject. Hence, my good friend, I shall leave its charms to your own imagination. The kiss platonic, or the kiss of friendship, is almost as dear as the former, though not quite so sweet: this, I may safely confide with you too. But the kiss promiscuous, which is the last; what shall I say of it? Cold, cold! but executed with grace by the well-bred and it is perfected by acquired elegance and practice, it being the constant ceremony at all interviews between men, women, and children. The merchants, slaves, &c. are as expert at it as the greatest lord; I mean in promptitude and activity; as for grace, it has not yet gravitated so low. You will frequently see a couple of huge hulking fellows with greasy grisly beards, kissing and smacking, locked in each others arms, as if they were meeting after an interval of ages.

Indeed there are many sights exhibited in this country very strange to