lars, and ornamented with ancient candalabrums, sarcophaguses, busts, vases, and other decorations of the classic ages. With these admirable specimens of departed genius, are mingled the monstrous associates of modern ill-fashioned cupids, negroes, fantastic heads, and hideous whirligigged pedestals of fifty-coloured marbles. My disgust at this sight, can only be compared to your sensations, should a groupe of asses burst in with their horrid brayings, amidst the soul-entrancing sounds of spheric harmony.

On leaving this enormous vestibule, the hall opens at once upon the eye, and excites an emotion which must be felt to be imagined; tò describe it is beyond my powers. I had not an opportunity of measuring this apparently measureless place, and therefore will not pretend to guess at its dimensions. A double range of Ionic columns, rises like a forest on either side; and when you look up to their capitals, the height is so great as almost to pain the eye. But there, the sublimity of this gigantic chamber ceases. A poverty-stricken, flat ceiling, with little insignificant urns in a squeezed shape, finish most abruptly, what might otherwise have been perfection. Had it been arched, the effect would have been unequalled in Europe. Between the pillars are placed statues; most of them modern and of indifferent merit. Some fine

imitations of the Barbarinii and other celebrated vases, are mixed with them; and at each end of the gallery, at some distance from the wall, are two excellent copies of the Laocoon and Cleopatra.

Through the long avenue of columns, is opened to your view a most delightful scene. A A spot dedicated to perpetual summer. Here all the sweets of Arabia, mingling with European taste, woo the senses to an exhaustless banquet. In this garden, the frigid airs of winter never breathe all is warmth and balmy softness. Trees, fruits, and flowers,

fill up the fragrant assemblage, and court you into walks winding through many a luxuriant maze of oranges, myrtles, and clustering vines. Whilst straying in so delicious an atmosphere, and surrounded by the foliage of a hundred groves, flowers springing flowers springing at your feet, and scenting a perfume which takes the captive soul and laps it in Elysium, how are the senses dissolved! It seems the power of enchantment; as if we were lost in Armida's garden, and there forgot every thing but pleasure and repose. On emerging from this earthly paradise, like leaves of the sensitive plant, the feelings are driven back upon themselves. For a few moments you cannot guess the cause: but looking round, the pale face of winter and its bleak attendants, lifeless trees, and drifting snows, soon explain the mystery, and account for the surprise.

During the short summer of this country, the pleasure-grounds which surround the palace, wear a very charming appearance. They are laid out in the English style; having extensive shrubberies, romantic walks, rustic retreats, hot-houses, and conservatories, as well as every other feature in a British garden. For these beauties, the imperial family are indebted to the taste and exertions of Mr. Gould, an Englishman, who has long resided in St. Petersburgh; and who plans and superintends all its most distinguished works of this nature. He is the Repton of Russia. His true English honesty, excellent heart, and hospitality, claim the esteem of all ranks; and add a still firmer decision to that respect for the British character already awarded to it by the generous admiration of the Russian empire. Here, the word of an Englishman is held as sacred as the bond of any other foreigner: and the veneration which the people pay to the nation at large, is most emphatically proved by the friendship they evince to every subject of Britain who lands on their shores. Cold I may have felt this country, but never the hearts of its inhabitants to your affectionate friend.

LETTER VII.

St. Petersburgh, September, 1805

IN N a letter I received sometime ago, you desired me not to omit seeing the church of Saint Alexander Nefsky. I have obeyed you; and beg you to accompany me through its consecrated aisles. All that we see in this city which is interesting, must excite our veneration from circumstance, not age. Not a stone of its present fabric was laid, much more than a century ago: so, as I cannot speak, either of the antiquity, or peculiar grandeur of this shrine to the illustrious Saint, I will first awaken your interest in giving you a little sketch of his character.

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He flourished about the middle of the thirteenth century, not bearing the title of Tzar of Russia, but that of Prince of Novgorod. The desolation of the Russian empire, brought on by the victories and ravages of the Tartars, prompted its neighbours to seek a share in the spoil. But Alexander, to whom his father Yaroslaf had resigned the government of Novgorod, met a formidable army of invading Danes on the banks of the Neva. He encountered them; and not only drove them off the field with great slaughter, but compelled the fugitives to make a hasty retreat into their own country. From this signal victory, he obtained the surname of Nefsky. Returning a conqueror to Novgorod, instead of being welcomed with plaudits, jealousy and suspicions surrounded him. Fearing that his high fame should incline him to stretch his prerogative and injure their liberties, the citizens caballed amongst themselves how to limit his present power, and finding that im

practicable, most ungratefully rose in open rebellion. Alexander was forced to retire; and full of indignation, applied to his father, who had assumed the government of Vladimir. The venerable Prince assigned to him the jusisdiction of Perciaslavl, and sent another of his sons to Novgorod. But no sooner had Alexander withdrawn, than they found the palladium of their safety had departed with him. The Danes being apprised of what had happened, raised new levies, and pouring in upon Novgorod, attacked the city with great fury. The new Prince was not successful in his attempts to check the enemy; and the people in despair, sent a deputation to the dauntless Alexander, to implore his forgiveness, and petition for his return. Their treason could not be so casily forgotten; and the ambassadors brought back a refusal. Entreaties were sent a second time, with the Archbishop at their head; upon which great humility Alexander complied; relieved the besieged city of Novgorod; and not only repulsed the enemy, but even pushed on to Livonia, and gained a decisive victory over the Germans, Danes, and Tchudes, on the borders of the Peipus lake. The fame of these new exploits of the heroic Prince soon reached the ears of the Tartar Khan, who was then, in some measure, the dictator of all the principalities of Russia. When Alexander's father the Grand-Prince Yaroslaf was dead, the Khan invited the young warrior to the horde; and there, as he had before honoured Yaroslaf, created him Grand-Prince of Russia, and caused him to mount the throne in the great city of Vladimir. Secure of the friendship of the Khan, he now turned all his thoughts towards clearing his country of the neighbouring ravagers; with a great force he undertook an expedition against Sweden, and happily acquired new laurels in every step he marched, and returned to his country laden with spoils and glory. Meanwhile the rest of the Princes of this vast empire, each in his separate territory finding himself oppressed by the idea of bearing

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any other yoke than his own will, resolved to unite and make a general attack upon the Tartars. The Khan hearing of this plot before it was ripe, sent to all these Princes to attend him immediately at the horde, saying he required their assistance in a matter of great consequence. It was casily perceived that this was only a feint to deprive the principalities of their sovereigns, and so render them more entirely under the subjection of the Khan. The Princes, therefore, all refused; but Alexander apprehending dire consequences from such obstinacy, and relying on the friendship of the Khan for himself, conceived the adventurous resolution of repairing quite alone to the horde; and there, by prudent submission appease the aroused anger of their chief. He resolved to make the dangerous attempt: and should even the Khan's vengeance make him the victim of his wrath, provided it might end there, he would be happy so to expiate the crime of his rash country. This patriotic Prince was obliged to remain a full year amongst the Tartars, before he could appease the indignation of the Khan. At length, after many an unsuccessful application, he received the act of amnesty from the offended chief; and was allowed to return into Russia to inform the Princes that all was forgiven. But whether the Khan repented of his clemency, or the jealousy of the Tartar Princes had prepared his fate, cannot be ascertained at this period, but it is well known that he died of poison long before he reached his own principality.

His life having been passed in deeds of arms and of piety, his memory was regarded with veneration; and enthusiasm reported that a number of miracles had been wrought at his tomb. On this he was canonized: and Peter the First, in order to hallow his new city in the minds of the people, brought the remains of the sainted hero to a shrine within it, over which he erected the church consecrated to his name. There is an order of knighthood instituted to the honour of Alexander, which