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LETTER XXXIII.

Dantzic: Friedland : Treaty of Tilsit: Departure of Lord Gower: Death of Prince Gallitzen: the Queen of Georgia: her Funeral: Interview with the Emperor Alexander

72

LETTER XXXIV.

Leaves St. Petersburgh for Sweden: Russian Finland: Finlanders: Viborg: Aberforce, the Russian Frontier: Swedish Finland: Abo: Swedish Sledges. 78

LETTER XXXV.

The Gulph of Bothnia: Eising: Mode of crossing: Warsala: Disasters on the Gulph: the Women of Warsala: Arvo: Village Dance: Garard Schmidt: Torshena: Kumlinga: Island Pastor Church and Church-yard: Wargata: Skorpas: Aland: Echero: Singleshare: Grislehamn. 87

LETTER XXXVI.

Snow Roads: Osby: Governor of Irkutskoi: Effects of the Cold: Custom-house Officers: Approach to Stockholm: the City: Exterior of the Palace: La Socitié: Burghers' Club: Theatre Swedish Loyalty 115

LETTER XXXVII.

Swedish Carriages: Poverty and virtue: Swedish Enthusiastn: View of Stockholm: Helsingburg Gripsholm: Opening of the Statue of Gustavus III.: Gustavus IV.: a Royal Ball Swedish Costume of the Nobility: the King: the Queen: Royal Example: Beauty of the Swedes: their Proficiency in Dancing

124

LETTER XXXVIII.

Army: Drabant: Foot Guards: Life Guards: the Navy: Raising Levies: Peculiar Military Laws: Church of Adolphus Frederic: Opinion on the Statue of Gustavus III.: Death of that King his Heroism at Gottenburg: his Battle of the Gallies

138

LETTER XXXIX.

Russians pass the Swedish Lines: Tour to the Mountains: a Forebode: Variation in Miles: Upsal: the Archbishop: University: Codex Argenteus: Ulphilas, Bishop of Thrace:

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TRAVELLING SKETCHES

IN

RUSSIA AND SWEDEN.

LETTER XXVI.

St. Petersburgh, July, 1806.

ON my arrival in St. Petersburgh I found our Embassador, Lord G.

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L. Gower, preparing for his departure. He soon after bade Russia adieu, leaving his Secretary of Legation, Mr. Stuart, as acting minister until the coming out of his successor. During this interval, the expiration of the treaty of commerce approached; and the renewal of it will remain to be obtained by the expected representative of His Britannic Majesty. At present the Russian government are silent on the subject; but doubts are entertained of its being granted, or if granted, with very circumscribed privileges.

I found the city, on this my second entrance, rather to lose in comparison with the brilliant and festive Mosco. The summer had robbed it also of its principal inhabitants. However, what friends I met, yet lingering amidst its sultry streets, received me with their usual cordial welcome. Several, who were detained in their residence by different

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interests, regretted the present dulness even more than I; but as a kind of fairy-favour, the name-day of the Empress Dowager came its annual round, and promised us some gay hours in those dedicated to its celebration. I think I mentioned before that the day of the Saint who bears the same name with individuals of the Greek church, is always greeted by the person so christened, with entertainments suited to their rank.

The palace of Peterhoff and its gardens were to be the scene of the Empress's fête. Vast crowds flocked towards the capital to witness the ceremony; and many thousands of all descriptions assembled in the gardens. The common people, by a gracious condescension of the imperial family, are admitted to a certain length, to share in all the grand festivities. And while the multitude thus roamed about, enjoying, in their minds, a paradise on earth, the court remained in the palace, amusing themselves from the windows with the passing groupes. Every thing around spoke the magnificence of the hand that designed the whole. Nothing could surpass the illuminations. Walks of not less than five or six miles, in various directions, bordered by fine trees, and carpetted with flowers of every hue and fragrance, were fantastically and brilliantly hung with millions of lamps. Temples blazing in light, as if constructed of myriads of precious stones, rubies, sapphires, topazes, and emeralds, darted their prismatic beams from a hundred openings in the shade.

Fountains, not to be equalled but at Versailles, played in every part of the gardens; throwing up their waters to an amazing height, and receiving them again, in basons of white marble decorated with gilded statues of

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