ART. V.-1. Diary in Turkish and Greek Waters. By the Right Honorable the EARL OF CARLISLE. London: Longman, Brown, Green, and Longmans. 1854. 16mo. pp.

353.

2. The Same. Edited by C. C. FELTON, Greek Professor in Harvard University. Boston: Hickling, Swan, and Brown. 1855.

LORD CARLISLE's Diary has attracted much attention in England, if we may judge by the numerous reviews of it which have appeared in the British journals. The rank of the author, and his general and well-deserved popularity among his countrymen for virtues and talents which win respect and admiration, no doubt contributed in the first instance to call earlier attention to this volume than it would have received had it proceeded from an obscurer person. The Earl of Carlisle is better known in this country than most English noblemen, having when Lord Morpeth travelled through the United States, Canada, and the West Indies, and having become personally acquainted with a large number of the leading citizens. His intelligence, candor, and amiable manners made everywhere the most agreeable impressions; while his decided opinions on agitating subjects, never obtruded, yet never dissembled, left no doubt as to the side he took on every question which involved the progress of society, or the liberty of individual man. In England he is of course universally known as a distinguished member of the British peerage, and the worthy inheritor of a great historical name. In a narrower circle, he is honored as the beneficent landlord, well-nigh adored by a numerous tenantry. In social life, as a gentleman of genial qualities and rare intellectual accomplishments, he has perhaps no superior. He takes an active part in promoting the intellectual improvement of the people, not only by lending his support to institutions for the diffusion of knowledge, but by personal exertions as a popular lecturer. His lectures on the United States, and on the Poetry of Pope, were not only interesting as embodying the well-considered opinions of a cool and impartial judge, but were marked by literary excellences of no common order.

The Diary is a journal of about a year's travel, in countries and seas always interesting, and at the present moment concentrating in an extraordinary degree the attention of the civilized world. Lord Carlisle left London, June 3, 1853, and the last entry in his journal is dated May 20, 1854. He crossed from Dover to Calais; then went by way of Lille to Cologne; ascended the Rhine; passed through Germany, visiting Frankfort, Dresden, Prague, and Vienna; embarked on the Danube; and on the 22d of June entered the Euxine. Two days later, he reached Constantinople. After passing several days in examining that city and its most picturesque and interesting neighborhood, he visited Broussa. In July he went down to the fleet, then lying at Besika Bay, where he remained long enough to examine the objects and places of literary and antiquarian interest in that historical region. Towards the end of July, he returned to Constantinople and the Bosphorus, and on the 24th of August embarked on board the Firebrand, which had been ordered to visit several ports in the Archipelago. The ship proceeded to Smyrna, and thence to Rhodes, reaching this island on the 29th. At Rhodes the noble traveller was taken ill with the small-pox, which unpleasantly interrupted his researches in that interesting island. On the 4th of October he re-embarked on board the Firebrand, returned to Smyrna, and on the 10th rejoined the fleet at Besika Bay. Having remained some time longer in this neighborhood, he returned again to the centre of interest, Constantinople and the Bosphorus. In November he once more left the Turkish capital, and revisited Smyrna; sailed through the Cyclades; rounded the foreland of Sunium; and on the 18th of November reached the Peiræus, and "drove up to Athens," where he remained until the 6th of December. From Athens he returned to Rhodes on board the Wasp screw-ship, which was commanded by an accomplished young officer, Lord John Hay; and thence passed along the coast of Asia Minor, and to Egypt, intending to make the usual tour of that country and the Holy Land. He was compelled by illness to abandon his projected tour of Egypt and Syria, and early in January took passage for Malta. On this delightful island he passed the month, and on the 1st of February embarked for Corfou.

After a visit of twenty days, well spent in social enjoyments, in examining the island, and making excursions to the neighboring islands and the opposite coast of Epeirus, he could "not resist taking another run down to Athens," and arrived there on the 1st of March. On the 18th, he set out on an expedition to the Argolid, which occupied only two days; on the 24th, he embarked on board the Highflyer, which, with the French ship Gomer, was to proceed " to the Macedonian and Thracian coasts, to show the fag, encourage the Turks, and prevent any improper communications from Greece," and from this expedition he returned to Athens on the 2d of April. From Athens, once more he turned his face to Constantinople, arriving there on the 7th, and remaining there or in the neighborhood until the 24th. Four days afterwards, once more he "arrived at the Peiræus," and on the 2d of May took a final leave of Athens. He embarked on board the Austrian steamer for Calamaki, crossed the Isthmus of Corinth, ascended the Acrocorinthos, took another Austrian steamer at Lutraki, arrived at Corfou on the 4th, and on the 7th took passage for Trieste, which he reached on the 9th. From Trieste he went the next day to Venice; and thence, by way of Verona and Milan, crossed the St. Gothard Pass to Switzerland, where the journal terminates.

We have taken the pains to sketch this "skeleton" of Lord Carlisle's tour, to show how different was the procedure of the noble travelle: from that of most tourists. The general plan of travelling is so to arrange the routes as not to pass over the same ground or visit the same place twice, it being supposed that the grand object of travelling is to "do" as many places and as many objects of interest as possible in the shortest time; and a record of the things thus done is generally kept by marking with pencil the passages in Murray's Hand-book, where the things in question are referred to or described. Such was not the system of Lord Carlisle; and those who desire to gain sound and valuable knowledge will adopt his plan rather than follow the "skeleton tours" in the guide-books. Constantinople, Smyrna, Athens, were revisited by him again and again; and we venture to say that the last visit was always the best and most profitable. Repeated

and

visits to such places are absolutely necessary to compare correct successive impressions at different times, under different circumstances, and with a greater number of objects of comparison. The American traveller, arriving in London, is amazed at the diminutive size of the world-renowned Thames; reaching Rome, he is still more amazed that such a streamlet as the yellow Tiber, should have made so much noise in the world; sweeping past the shores of Troy, he can scarcely believe his eyes, as he looks upon the broad and boundless Hellespont of Homer; landing at the Peiræus, he hurries impatiently to Athens, and before dining walks out to refresh his sight and delight his imagination with the charms of the Cephissus and Ilissus, the former of which he can jump over at its widest place, and the latter scarcely furnishes water enough to quench his thirst. All these streams, so famous in history, he compares with the Hudson, the Ohio, the Mississippi, which have always been his standard of measurement. He must change his standard; accordingly, as he returns from the East, he crosses Italy perhaps from Ancona to Rome. He comes upon the Tiber forty or fifty miles from the Eternal City, and is amazed by its size. All the rivers of Greece would hardly supply its mighty currents; and old Father Tiber regains to his imagination the imposing grandeur of which the Ohio and Mississippi had before robbed him. So, when the traveller revisits London, the Thames is no longer the insignificant river it once appeared. It is a mighty and majestic sweep of water, worthy to bear on its bosom the wealth and the commerce of the British empire.

Lord Carlisle's Diary is a record of impressions and observations during a tour which brought him into scenes of the highest historical interest in the past, and among persons engaged in transactions which will fill the most memorable chapters in the history of the present age. His finely cultivated mind was open to all the charms of association suggested by the former, and his position and character gave him the readiest access to the latter. The journal is written in a simple and manly style, and the topics naturally suggested by what he saw and heard are discussed with singular clearness and impartiality. At the present moment, when the political

relations of England and the complicated questions growing out of the Eastern war might naturally bias the judgment of an Englishman who travels in Turkey, Lord Carlisle sees things in a light uncolored by prejudice, and dares to speak his mind as freely as if Turkey were not the favored ally of England. While writers and statesmen at home enlarge upon the progress of Turkey in civilization and in liberal sentiments, and utter eloquent invectives against the Greek subjects of the Porte who ungenerously and piratically seize the time of war to rid themselves of the Moslem yoke, Lord Carlisle, though maintaining the justice of the war as the struggle of European civilization against the impending barbarism of the North, is always true to facts of observation, and follows them to just inferences and inevitable conclusions. He sees the fallacy of hopes founded on any schemes of reform in the decaying and death-smitten empire of the Sultan; he penetrates the causes which have undermined the foundations of the national power; he understands the effects of longcontinued vices in domestic life, and of a religion founded on imposture; and he does not hesitate to express himself plainly on these topics, although his countrymen have been generally induced to look upon Turkey with hope and complacency. He was not blinded by the pomp of military preparations, and the stately movements of the allied fleets in the Turkish waters, to the fact, that the Turk is essentially ignorant, fanatical, indolent, and voluptuous; that the progress which some suppose to have taken place in the empire is local and superficial, while the diseases which are rapidly destroying its vitality are deep-seated and incurable.

The classical associations with the spots he visited are never absent from Lord Carlisle's mind. While at Besika Bay he reads the Iliad through, and, comparing the language of Homer with the features of nature that still mark the plain of Troy and the ruin-covered hill of Bourna-baschi, he sees that this plain and this hill, and the mountains that rise behind it, are no other than the scene of that immortal tale. While traversing the Argolid, and standing under the Gate of Lions at Mycenæ, he recalls the mighty creations of Eschylus, which still seem to haunt these solitary walls, and to walk