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it in their single horse sledges to the river, the sooner to make the ways passable, and rid them of their winter shaub.

During this operation, the road became extremely bad, having unavoidably, till all was cleared off, at different intervals, holes of a great depth, to the imminent peril of the passenger, whether in carriage or en traineau. Walking, at this season, is deemed a disgrace: and it is very well that prejudice sets so firmly against any attempt to change the mode, as it would be dangerous in the extreme: its inconveniencies could hardly be balanced. In the first place, to prevent the inveterate penetration of the snow water you must swathe your feet and legs in bandages of a hundred folds; and then thrust them into huge machines of most uncouth Russian materials, before you durst venture to set one foot to the ground in such a toe-destroying element. Common leather boots would be as mere blotting paper, and soaked through in an instant. Then imagine all the muddy embroidery, which would skirt your pelisse even to the middle of your back, where the melting snows from the neighbouring houses, would greet it, like the meeting waters in Noah's flood. If you walk near the sides of the houses (the most eligible place in England), your death is threatened every moment. Here, during the long winter, the icicles accumulate to such a number and size, and hang in such a tremendous fringe from the eaves, that their appearance alone is sufficient to intimidate the boldest pedestrian. And yet some have been so rash that I have heard of frequent instances of persons passing under them at the commencement of the thaw, who, by the falling of these immense masses were crushed to pieces. Their weight is incredible. The snow is not only annoying, but equally perilous with the ice; and, as it slides by degrees to the bend of the roof, in some unexpected moment is precipitated in a sort of avalanche into the street below. I saw three natives, who were trudging by at the instant of a chute de neige, all embowelled at once. A considerable time was spent in digging them out, when they were brought forth, to a miracle alive, but much hurt.

It is a very amazing spectacle to observe how rapidly this frigid covering vanishes, and how soon the smiling face of

spring appears. In one day the Moskva became liquid, and no trace of winter remained on its waters, except where floating masses of ice, and the fragments of dismantled cottages rolling down its current, reminded you of the yet recent devastations of its departing wrath. The disunited snows from the higher lands usually come down into the lower in such quantity and with such violence, that cattle, men, and often whole villages are swept away. The rivers receive the dreadful deposit: and thus, on the banks of the Moskva, at the moment when spring promises every vernal joy, you behold the wrecks of devastation, the memorials of a mischief and misery incalculable.

A great part of the city lying very low, was for several days under water; but now all is cleared, and the trees are ready to bloom. It is hardly eight days since the thaw began, and there is scarcely a particle of snow to be found. What a fortnight ago was a dreary plain of ice, is now robed in verdure, and animated with budding trees and shrubs. The whole aspect of the city is so changed, that no one who did not witness the moment of alteration could believe it to be the same place. Mosco in summer and Mosco in winter has as much resemblance, as a butterfly to its chrysalis. At present it is like a world of palaces collected together: and really the idea given of it by Joseph the Second of Austria, who paid it a visit, is a better picture than I can draw.

"Here, (said he) have all the chief lords of the empire set themselves down, surrounded each by his village, his church, and his vassals."

The description is just; for it is not a city of houses in mere rank and file of streets, but rather a collection of mansions, each embosomed amidst its own lawns, gardens, pleasure grounds, and the dwellings of its necessary slaves. Some of the most ancient princes of the empire have very splendid palaces in Mosco, ornamented with basso relievo, gilding, and every Asiatic decoration. Indeed this is a favourite residence with almost all the Russian nobility who have not employments at court or in the government. And from the great influx of inhabitants, you see many of their fine houses yet unfinished without, while the inside boasts every splendor which taste can

present, and every hospitality in the power of kindness to offer. No Englishman can-speak too sensibly of the attentions which the Moscovite nobility pay to the individuals of his nation. It is even more gracious than the most refined courtesy; possessing all its graces, it carries to your heart the more delightful conviction of an animated friendship.

Owing to the peculiar circumstances of the inhabitants of this town, pleasure is ever the order of the day: it holds a continual carnival, where balls, private theatres, masquerades, and assemblies of all sorts, for ever vary the scene. The grounds around the mansions of the nobility afford romantic and charming morning walks. But their favourite amusement, is what they call the promenade. It consists of all the carriages in the city, perhaps to the number of seven thousand, trailing after each other in regal procession, through fixed parts of the town and its environs. The insides of these vehicles are filled with all the beauty and splendor of Mosco: and in my life I never beheld so many lovely women at one time.

The superiority of this metropolis over that of St. Petersburgh, in the general beauty of the females, is beyond comparison. Perhaps this may be accounted for, from the intermarriages of the noble families with those of countries celebrated for symmetry of features and graceful forms: namely, Circassia, Georgia, and Poland. The young ladies dress in rather the Parisian mode, but much improved by their own native taste. Their evening attire is in a more beautiful style than that of any other country: but in the morning dress, the fair of our own country have the advantage.

Before I came into this country, I was led to believe that I should find the morals on a par with France. To me it seems totally the reverse. I never saw married people more happy, or apparently more affectionate towards each other: I never, in any country, met with young women more amiable and virtuous. Every country has its mauvais sujets! And anciently, as an unlimited license to pleasure was given here, and exampled by those high in influence, it might be supposed that the seeds of libertinism, once sown in a nation, could never be eradicated; but it grew so rank during its short season, that I believe

all is exhausted, and that the last generation carried with them into the other world not only the fruits but the roots of their cultivation. In short, it appears from what I have hitherto been able to judge, that for a city, whose sole object is pleasure, Mosco possesses less of what is called fashionable vice, than may be found in countries where more seeming austerity is practised.

The promenade I have just mentioned, or more properly speaking the cavalcade, generally begins at the termination of the six weeks' fast. Many do indeed religiously abstain from food, in a manner that produces very alarming effects. After the sparest diet, with a weakened system, when the fast ex pires, they return to their usual full tables with an avidity which, unchecked, lays the foundation for numerous disorders. The female sex, particularly, are sufferers, who throwing themselves from a cloistered regimen and retirement immediately into repletion, and the stream of these equipages; thinly clad, and staying out late with open windows amid the damps of the evaporating earth, catch such colds as either end their days or embitter their lives. Medical men tell me that at this witching time of the year, there is more sickness, death, and misery, than at any other period in their practice.

Were such a concourse of carriages to assemble in our island, as here meet on the banks of the Moskva, fractured poles, broken sides, and maimed coachmen, footmen, &c. would be the certain consequences; but a most admirable police is instituted both here and at St. Petersburgh, to prevent all confusion and disaster. This authority is invested in a detachment of soldiers, who having an imperious command over the procession, not only add to its magnificence but insure its safety.

Having escaped from this blaze of beauty without catching fire, and from the steaming earth without catching an ague, I call on you to congratulate on such a double miracle, your very affectionate friend.

LETTER XX.

Mosco, May, 1806.

THE first week in the vernal month of May! At this gay season, when pleasure woos me in as many shapes as ever Armida assumed to charm away the wits of the doughty Rinaldo, I cut my way through all her wiles; if not by a hero's sword, at least with a friend's penknife: and having pointed my quill, place myself firmly behind the shield of a sheet of paper, determined to fill it with a thousand of the enchantress's spent darts, before she draws me away from half an hour's converse with you!

You will not marvel at my heroics, when I tell you that I have just escaped from the very spell-bound wood of the fair magician! But I will relate all in order: and beginning with the usual style of longwinded story letters, you must know that the first of May is the brightest day in the Russian calendar of festivities. A wood, some versts from Mosco, is the spot dedicated to this annual enjoyment. The trees are already clothed with leaves, and the groves and bowers into which the sylvan scene is divided, are blooming with flowers, and every decoration that Pleasure, and her handmaid Taste, can devise. To this spot all steps are directed: and once more the long procession of carriages sets forth. By the way, I must check my reins a moment, to tell you how your remark "that good rulers ought to turn even the pleasures of the people to the advantage of the state," has been honoured à priori in Russia. Peter the Great instituted these cavalcades to make a part in all public festivities, that the building of carriages, and other manufactures useful in such shows, might be encouraged by more than an ordinary consumption. His plan took the desired effect, for the equipages are splendid to the utmost of their owner's stretch of fancy and purse: at this time the nobles try to outvie each other both in carriages and cattle. The caparisons are unusually gorgeous; and the result is remarkably fine, as they never drive fewer than four horses of the most admirable beauty. The servants are habited in dresses covered with

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