From a reason of this kind, I account for their continental name of Bohemians. During the terrible persecution of the christians in the tenth century, under Boleslaus the Cruel, who expelled them Bohemia, many were driven from their native homes to perish amid the trackless forests of Poland, Germany, and Russia. Travellers could nowhere go without meeting hordes of these unhappy people, sitting by the road sides, and feeding themselves and children on the wild pulse. Sometimes they moved in larger bodies, and sometimes in less; everywhere overspreading the countries in such multitudes, as to cause every itinerant group that appeared to be supposed Bohemian. Hence the fewer tribes of Gypsies were confounded in the general swarm, and called Bohemians.

In a succeeding and more happy period the greater number of the persecuted christians were recalled to their country by the pious successor of the tyrant of Bohemia: but some of them, preferring even a necessitous liberty to a chance of similar suffering, most likely would join themselves with the Gypsies, now called by their appellation; and so, though independent of their country, these adventurers found themselves acknowledged as Bohemians still. Less innocent associates, outlaws from their nations, might insinuate themselves amongst the hordes; perverting the original blamelessness of the poor wandering Israelites, and so initiating them into the several accomplishments of cheating, stealing, &c.

So far my hypothesis regarding the Gypsies: and for fear you should be more wearied than edified by my researches after their pedigree, I shall make some little compensation by sending a portrait of one of the fair belonging to this brown people. The face is an exact copy from a very handsome prophetess of their tribe, who stood by the carriage side. The dress, which is just as she wore it, will strike you with its resemblance to the drapery of a Roman toga.

I have learned to write in my barouche. So you will not be surprised to find me exclaim, St. Petersburgh is in sight! In a few hours, I shall be relieved from my noble companion; and this, almost measureless epistle, shall be despatched to you by your very faithful friend.

LETTER XXVI.

St. Petersburgh, July, 1806.

ON my arrival in St. Petersburgh I found our ambassador, lord G. L. Gower, preparing for his departure. He soon after bade Russia adieu, leaving his secretary of legation, Mr. Stuart, as acting minister until the coming out of his successor. During this interval, the expiration of the treaty of commerce approached; and the renewal of it will remain to be obtained by the expected representative of his Britannic Majesty. At present the Russian government are silent on the subject; but doubts are entertained of its being granted, or if granted, with very circumscribed privileges.

I found the city, on this my second entrance, rather to lose in comparison with the brilliant and festive Mosco. The summer had robbed it also of its principal inhabitants. However, what friends I met, yet lingering amidst its sultry streets, received me with their usual cordial welcome. Several, who were detained in their residence by different interests, regretted the present dulness even more than I; but as a kind of fairy favour, the name-day of the empress dowager came its annual round, and promised us some gay hours in those dedicated to its celebration. I think I mentioned before that the day of the saint who bears the same name with individuals of the Greek church, is always greeted by the person so christened, with en'tertainments suited to their rank.

The palace of Peterhoff and its gardens were to be the scene of the empress's féte. Vast crowds flocked towards the capital to witness the ceremony; and many thousands of all descriptions assembled in the gardens. The common people, by a gracious condescension of the imperial family, are admitted to a certain length, to share in all the grand festivities. And while the multitude thus roamed about, enjoying, in their minds, a paradise on earth, the court remained in the palace, amusing themselves from the windows with the passing groups. Every thing around spoke the magnificence of the hand that designed

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the whole. Nothing could surpass the illuminations. Walks of not less than five or six miles, in various directions, bordered by fine trees, and carpeted with flowers of every hue and fragrance, were fantastically and brilliantly hung with millions of lamps. Temples blazing in light, as if constructed of myriads of precious stones, rubies, sapphires, topazes, and emeralds, darted their prismatic beams from a hundred openings in the shade.

Fountains, not to be equalled but at Versailles, played in every part of the gardens; throwing up their waters to an amazing height, and receiving them again, in basons of white marble decorated with gilded statues of the gods and water nymphs, whose bodies glittered through this shower of falling diamonds, like the lustrous forms of Amphitrite and her train, so beautifully described by our favourite Fenelon. In front of the palace a rapid torrent rolled down a flight of high granite steps. Having rows of lamps placed at the base of each, the rushing stream sparkled as it fled over the radiant platform; producing an admirable and marvellous effect, from the tremulous velocity of the water. In short, it appeared a work of enchantment; being more like a cataract of the brightest flame, than a fall of the colder element.

Light was here lavished; above, around, below, all was one continued blaze: for the numerous lakes in the grounds, reflecting the constellation of lamps, so bewildered the sight, that every step towards their margin seemed to announce a burning abyss, and threaten a rather Tartarean bath in the doubled fires. As water nymphs were placed in the fountains, I think a Pluto carrying off the lovely Proserpine through these glowing waves, would have added no inconsiderable interest to the scene. There were many bearded Russians present, who might have stood very aptly for gloomy Dis; but for the fair flower he gathered, he must have looked for it across the threshold of the palace, as, I repeat, the merchant dames have no pretensions to any of that beauty which charmed the royal ravisher of Enna.

From the day having been previously rainy, and continuing cloudy, the night was extremely dark, which gloom, instead of

being an inconvenience, gave more effect to the splendor of the scene; producing, to people who viewed it from a distance, the appearance of the conflagration of a great city. We had also a prospect from the palace, not less magnificent: the ships of war on the gulf being illuminated from the masthead to every part of the rigging, their shapes thus brilliantly defined were distinctly seen, when opposed to the black waters on which they rode.

The imperial mansion, as usual on these occasions, contained the court, and the party honoured with an invitation. The whole of the family was present. And jewels, splendid dresses, ribbons, stars, crosses, the orders of all nations, with the delicacy and graces of the ladies, formed a curious contrast to the shaggy traffickers and their waxen wives. The young empress looked like a divinity; and being in a state of maternal solicitude, an additional tender charm was given to her appearance. The august lady of the day moved about with the mien and benignity of a Minerva; and, by her smiles, dispensed a cheerfulness which awaked pleasure, while it chastised all ruder mirth.

During this charming evening, while every pleasing circumstance recalled to me dearer hours passed in Mosco at the like festivities, my eye was suddenly arrested by one, whom, to have seen once, it was impossible not to recognise amongst a thousand; and as I had seen him often, and not only admired him as a hero, but had experienced sufficient of his amiableness to revere him as a man, I sprung forward with joy to greet the prince Bagration. Mosco had introduced me to him. Every heartfelt recollection which that place suggested, was, no doubt, painted in my face, and distinctly spoke the delight of this rencontre; for he returned the grasp of my hand with the most gracious warmth: and for awhile, during the short conversation which the admiring throng around him would allow me to enjoy, I believed myself once more in the ancient capital, surrounded by all my wishes. So strong is the power of association! At eleven o'clock the court supper was spread: and before two o'clock most of the visitors retired.

I took up my rest on the Peterhoff road, at the house of a

British merchant, who had kindly invited me, there to forget the garish splendors of the night in a downbed, and a chamber of true English comfort. Indeed, were I to particularize by name, each individual of our countrymen settled here, who has showed me attention, I should give a list of them all; so warmly hospitable, so universally friendly have they been. I am hardly less indebted to the German gentlemen established at St. Petersburgh, who have even vied with each other in evincing, by kindness to me, their esteem for an Englishman.

To us, who regard our merchants as the pillars of our country, it is surprising to see the prejudices of the Russian nobility against the mercantile profession. Indeed all professions, excepting arms, are held in sovereign contempt by this lofty order of men. None but slaves, or persons derived from that race, ever in Russia become merchants, physicians, &c. &c. Hence it is very difficult for nobles, who have never been beyond the empire, to be made to understand that all those vocations are often filled, in England, by persons related to the best families. So far is the distinction carried, that a merchant, of whatever wealth, is not allowed to travel with more than three horses on the road, and two in the city. A noble never drives less than four, and frequently six. However, notwithstanding this general prejudice, I have sometimes met with a few (but very rarely) of both sexes of the Russian noblesse at the houses of our merchants: but they have always been persons of an extraordinarily enlarged mind, rendered still more liberal by travelling, and probably a residence in England.

Having some business at the admiralty, I returned to town early next morning. This public edifice is one of the most extensive in St. Petersburgh. It was planned and built by Peter the Great. At present, the architecture is not very striking; but it is undergoing alterations,, which, we hope, will render it worthy of the navy of which it is the head. It stands on the banks of the Neva; and divides the English quay from that of the winter palace. The docks are large; and sufficiently numerous for the construction of four firstrate ships of war, besides frigates, and smaller vessels. One, in dock, of one hundred and thirty guns, is nearly completed; and is of the most excel