drove through many woods; being the close of evening, several wolves issued from the thickets, but without an alarming appearance; they merely crossed the heads of our horses, eyed them anxiously, halted at a short distance, and on the smallest noise set off into the forest. The Westerahs, like most cities in Sweden, is situated upon the edge of water. They have generally a lake or a river as their nearest neighbour; and this town, considered the capital of Westmanland, is built on the northern bank of the Malar. It is the see of a bishop, and the residence of a governor. It boasts a castle, though not a very magnificent one; but its cathedral far exceeds, in preservation and grandeur, that of Upsal. Its interior is very beautiful, and possesses several flat monuments of its ancient clergy, as well as an altar, and two or three other specimens of papistical decoration, so admirably hewn and carved, as would do honour to Albert Durer. The subject of the altarpiece is the life and death of our Saviour, arranged in Gothic compartments, painted and gilded with the most curious accuracy. The beauty of the design, and the colours are in such preservation, that I consider the work as the most perfect thing of the kind extant. We were next shown the monument of the unfortunate Eric XIV., erected by the late king. It is of Italian design and workmanship; and as worthy of the monarch as of the artist. The whole consist of a sarcophagus surmounted by a crown and other symbols of royalty, having a bronze vase on the side. On the pedestal is the following inscription: Eric XIV. Regi Svev. Goth. Vand. Bellis terrà marique gestis claro Hic Indulgente demum fratre Pax concessa est. Gustavus III. Hoc monumentum ponit. The liberality, genius, and greatness of mind of the late sovereign of this country, are apparent wherever you turn: in almost every city of the kingdom you meet testimonies of words like these, bearing witness to all ages, how magnificent, how noble was Gustavus the Third! The cathedral of Westerahs was begun and completed in the twelfth century; and owed its origin, I believe, to St. Eric, being finished by his successor, Charles the Seventh. It possesses a small but valuable library, containing several manuscripts in high estimation, which were brought, from Mayence in the year 1635. We next visited the square, to see a large ill fashioned building destined for the residence of the governor, in which, we were told, the unhappy Eric XIV. was confined. At present, it neither resembles a palace nor a prison; but is called the castle; and, as I said before, is a most hideous looking structure. Nothing more attractive presenting itself, we entered our vehicle, and set forwards on our journey. As we shot along, we passed through several villages charmingly situated, and halted at the hospitable mansion of Mr. Ds. Once, it was a palace of Gustavus III. a circumstance that rendered it doubly interesting to me. I walked in its park, and was shown many runic stones that were exceedingly curious. As I purpose visiting our kind friend again, I shall then make drawings of them for the benefit of my antiquarian acquaintance. I know not whether you will find much entertainment in such antiques; but none can be more valuable in both our eyes than an old friend! I therefore shall bring you myself, if I do not send them, very shortly: intending only a very brief stay at Stockholm; then, perhaps, a sweep over the frontiers of Norway; and then, happy sight! the cliffs of England will greet the eyes of your affectionate friend. LETTER XLIV. Stockholm, April, 1808. ON my returning to Stockholm, (having in my absence seen so many admirable inanimate objects,) I was determined to lose no time in gaining an admission to a living one that was yet more worthy of admiration,-the wonderful Sergal. This was an achievement more difficult than climbing the heights of Dalecarlia. This extraordinary man, whose works equal some of the finest of Greece, is labouring under a severe nervous illness which has affected him for many years; not only depriving the world of the creations of his divine genius, but also bereaving his friends of the happiness his conversation afforded. His talents were not so absorbed in his art as to leave him without those social graces, which endear even more than they embellish. I am told that in the days of his health, his company was sought by all ranks as their greatest prize. His mind was generally informed, full of classical knowledge, fine taste, and the most engaging cheerfulness. All these endowments, finished by an exquisite gracefulness of manners, so recommended him to Gustavus III., that he not only possessed that monarch's patronage, but his confidential friendship. The death of that amiable sovereign so affected Mr. Sergal, that his former vivacity gave way to a growing pensiveness, with frequent bursts of sorrow; and some years ago he fell into an illness which has left his nerves in the most shattered state. Indeed, so sad is his condition, that he now shuts himself up from the world, hardly allowing, except on very rare occasions, even his oldest friend to approach him. However, one of them, at my solicitation, ventured to mention to him my earnest wish to have the honour of personally know. ing him. To the astonishment of all he consented to receive me. I was immediately taken to him, and presented by his friend. The venerable man welcomed me with a gentle kindness that penetrated the heart. He spoke as if he was pleased with the . sentiment that brought me to him, and talked with great -affability of myself and my country. He appears to be about seventy, with a fine and expressive countenance. The account I had heard of his indisposition and its primary causes (for he had more than one), made me look on him with additional interest and tenfold regret. Respecting the amiableness of the disposition which could have rendered his frame so susceptible, and reflecting on the loss the world sustained by his paralized powers, I was more moved than I could possibly conceal. The gentleman who had presented me, in a few minutes made a signal for our departure. When I rose to withdraw Mr. Sergal desired that I might be conducted to his study, and lamented that his being an invalid prevented his attending me thither himself. I bade him adieu, pleased with my interview, but impressed with saddening thoughts at the melancholy decline of such a man. It is always gratifying to see celebrated persons; and when worthy of the fame they receive, the pleasure is converted to a happiness. I have ever sought them at home and abroad with assiduity; and during my several journeyings to and fro on the earth, have been personally introduced to not a few characters whose names will live in the page of fame for ever. It was this reverence of the truly great, that led me to the side of the divine Klopstock, just a month or two before he died. Though a patriarch in years and literary glory, his mind seemed to flourish in immortal youth; and when his silver hairs and feeble step declared that his mortal glass was nearly run, the brightness of his eye, and the animation of his conversation, promised a life, lengthened for many years. He looked, as he discoursed, like the poet of the Messiah. I never can forget the interview. He, to his latest hour, was blest with unvarying, though tender health. It was not of a robust constitution, but mild and clear like his own genius. Similar was his mind; and when I saw him, it seemed to shine forth, like an angelic spirit in a human form, "sent on a heavenly embassy to man." Happy, therefore, was his lot! But, the no less admirable Sergal! I saw him suffering under a grievous malady; and the remem brances I brought away were full of commiseration and painful regrets. As he had been the chosen companion of Gustavus III. (having accompanied that prince to Italy, where he assisted him to make the royal collection of antiques now in the palace), the present king, on the opening of the statue of his illustrious father, added to the honours with which he had already distinguished Sergal, that of ennobling his family. On leaving the venerable invalid, we descended into the Attilur. I looked around, and beheld innumerable busts, several of which were of the nobility; but what particularly attracted my attention was, one of Gustavus III., and another of his magnanimous son, the present king, partnered with one of his queen. These three were of marble, and exquisitely finished by the chisel of Sergal. To the heads of the two sovereigns he had given soul and energy, as well as all the softness of nature. The head of her majesty possesses her sweet expression, and the enchanting smile which bespeaks the heavenly goodness of her heart. We next turned to a Venus in a bending posture, pressing her left hand gracefully on her bosom, from which falls a piece of drapery more like an aërial veil; in short, the whole statue rather resembles a poetic phantom, than a mass of solid marble. This supernatural beauty, this breathing life, are the excellencies of Sergal, which bring him so closely on a level with the best Greek artists. The production in question has been completed fifteen years. Another fine specimen of the talents of this great master, is a group of Venus being wounded by Diomede. It is in every part replete with knowledge, taste, and fine composition. But I hasten with impatience to point out to you what I consider as his chef-d'œuvre: a work which alone would have given him immortal fame. Cupid and Psyche! O, that you had been with me to partake the luxury of viewing such perfection! so strongly did I think of the pleasure you would have enjoyed, that I even looked round at the instant, as if I expected to say to you "How beautiful it is!" The time the artist has chosen, is the moment after Psyche |