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LETTER XV.
The Emperor's Return from the Army: his Person and Manners:
Presentation at Court: the Dowager Empress: the Winter Pa-
lace: Masquerade there: Imperial Family: Ball and Supper at
the Hermitage: Morning Festivities: the Ice Hill; Manner of
Skating: Benediction of the Waters: Reindeer
LETTER XVI.
119
The Army: Cossacs: the Men: the Horses: Origin of the Cossacs:
their Discipline and Dress: Baschkirs: Military System: Guards:
Infantry: Cavalry: Pay: occasional Alterations in Tactics: Hu-
lans: Hussars: National Character
LETTER XVII.
131
A Winter Journey: a Kabitka: a Russian Village: Plains of Snow:
Novgorod: St. Anthony's Millstone: Twer: the Barouche: the
Postmaster: Klin: Posthouse: the Pastor: Character of the Clergy
LETTER XVIII.
142
Mosco: Hospitality: Dinner in honour of Prince Bagration: his
Person and Manners: Russian Song: Military Bands: Horn In-
struments: Dwarfs: Fools: Giants
LETTER XIX.
153
Situation of Mosco: the Kremlin: the Kitai-gorod: the Biel-gorod:
the Zemlenoi-gorod: the Slobades: View from the Tower of Ivan
the Great: the Churches: Bells: the Church of Ivan Basilovitch:
the Italian Architect: Spring: Breaking up of the Frost: Joseph
II. of Austria: Grand Cavalcade: Charms of the Women: Dan-
gers of the Season 160
LETTER XX.
May-Day: Countess Orloff: her Birthday: Banquet: Cannons: Horse-
race: Ball: Paternal Authority: Kisses, Vassalage: Attendants:
Slaves' Gratitude: Slaves' Revenge: German General: Consola-
tion
169
LETTER XXI.
View from the Terrace of the Kremlin: Foundling Hospital: Pa-
rade in the Fortress: Recruits: Princess Dashcoff: Summer
Garden: Military Hospital: Merchants' Wives: Baths: Bells:
Suwarroff's Widow.
179
LETTER XXII.
Palace of Prince Dolgorouky: Devitchy Convent: Tomb of Prin-
cess Sophia: Regulations of Nuns, Monks, and Archimandrites:
Dress of the Nuns and Novices: Cell of Princess Sophia: Prince
W-'s fête de village: Mass in his Church; Account of the
Origin of Mosco 190
LETTER XXIII.
Climate of Russia: Archangel: the Horrors of its Winter: Account
of the Town: Population of Mosco: Ostanknia: Kuscova: the
Baloon: Coursing: St. Martinus Pravidnick: Monastery of Troit-
za: Tomb of St. Sergius: Sacerdotal Garments: Russian and
English Churches
199
LETTER XXIV.
A Prison: Condemnation to the Mines: Penal Laws: Poor Female
executed: Polish Prisoner: Labour: Apparatus of the Knout:
Encampment: Tents: Arms: Evening Military Hymn: Supper
with Prince G―: Dress of the Officers: Boddices: Moscovite
Hospitality: Unborn Lambs: Furs 209
LETTER XXV.
Departure from Mosco: a travelling Companion: a Fray: a Village
Battle: Voskresensky: Monastery of the New Jerusalem: Archi-
mandrite: Greek Church: Palestine: Gardens of Uriah: David:
Monks' Habits: Jordan: Euphrates: Nichon's Hermitage: Pa-
triarch Nichon: his Tomb: a new Fray: Summer Views: Na-
tives' Summer Dresses: Barbarous Custom: Falls of Borovitsky:
Valdaia: Groups of Drovers: Gypsies: their Origin
LETTER XXVI.
222
Departure of Lord L. Gower: Name-day of the Dowager Empress:
Illuminations: Fountains: Merchants: Admiralty: Docks: the
Camel: Portrait of Peter the Great: Pictures from History: Cabi-
net of Natural History: Image of Peter the Great: a curious
Tract
241
LETTER XXVII.
Palace of Jutchina: Apartments of the Emperor Paul: Empress
Dowager: French Picture of Peter the Great: Heat of the Wea-
ther: Villas on the Neva: Kammenoiostroff: Gardens of Count
Strogonoff: Tomb of Homer: Tomb of Achilles
249
The Knout
LETTER XXVIII.
255
LETTER XXIX.
Leaves St. Petersburgh: Travelling Disaster: Avidity of the Lower
Orders: Torzok: Return to Mosco: the Grand Chamberlain:
Russian Titles: St. Sebastian: Lovers of the Arts.
LETTER XXX.
260
Count Razumofsky: Subterraneous Gardens: Ice Cellars: Head of
Peter the Great: a travelling Exploit of the Tzar: the Otaheitan
Chief
268
LETTER XXXI.
Subjection of Prussia: Russian Levies: Tartar Auxiliaries: Basch-
kirs: their Manner of Life: their Arms: Baschkir Chief: Basch-
kir Music: Kirghises: Kalmucs
LETTER XXXII.
278
Leaves Mosco: Death of a Lady of Rank: Absence of the Emperor:
Treaty of Commerce: the Calker General: Pictures of the Ad-
miralty
LETTER XXXIII.
288
Dantzic: Friedland: Treaty of Tilsit: Departure of Lord Gower:
Death of Prince Gallitzen: the Queen of Georgia: her Funeral:
Interview with the Emperor Alexander
LETTER XXXIV.
293
Leaves St. Petersburgh for Sweden: Russian Finland: Finlanders:
Viborg: Aberforce, the Russian Frontier: Swedish Finland: Abo:
Swedish Sledges
LETTER XXXV.
297
The Gulf of Bothnia: Elsing: Mode of Crossing: Warsala: Disas-
ters on the Gulf: the Women of Warsala: Arvo: Village Dance:
Gerard Schmidt: Torshena: Kumlinga: Island Pastor: Church
and Church yard: Wargata: Skorpas: Aland: Echero: Single-
share: Grisleholmn
304
b
LETTER XXXVI.
Snow: Roads: Osby: Governor of Irkutskoi: Effects of the Cold:
Customhouse Officers: Approach to Stockholm: the City: Exte-
rior of the Palace: La Societé: Burgher's Club: Theatre: Swedish
Loyalty
LETTER XXXVII.
325
Swedish Carriages: Poverty and Virtue: Swedish Enthusiasm:
View of Stockholm: Helsingburgh: Gripsholm: Opening of the
Statue of Gustavus III.: Gustavus IV.: a Royal Ball: Swedish
Costume of the Nobility: the King: the Queen: Royal Example:
Beauty of the Swedes: their Proficiency in Dancing
LETTER XXXVIII.
-
331
Army: Drabant: Foot Guards: Life Guards: the Navy: Raising
Levies: Peculiar Military Laws: Church of Adolphus Frederick:
Opinion on the Statue of Gustavus III.: Death of that King: his
Heroism at Gottenburg: his Battle of the Galleys
LETTER XXXIX.
341
Russians pass the Swedish Lines: Tour to the Mountains: a For-
bode: Variation in Miles: Upsal: the Archbishop: University:
Codex Argenteus: Ulphilas, Bishop of Thrace: Martin Luther's
Bible: Edda: Large sealed Chests of Gustavus III.: Consecration
of the Bishop of Calmar
LETTER XL.
350
The Cathedral of Upsal: Tomb of Gustavus Vasa: Shrine of Saint
Eric: Monument of Linnæus: Holy Vestments: Piece of the
Cross: Queen Margaret's Shift: Idol of the god Thor: Ancient
Pagan Temple at Old Upsal: Plain of Furissival: Account of
Odin, Friga, and Thor: View of Upsal: Description of the
Suburbs: Botanic Garden: Museum: Zoology: Minerals: Medals:
Pictures
359
LETTER XLI.
Leaves Upsal: Dunamora: Descends into the Iron Mine: the Mora
Steinar: Sala: Fashions of the Peasants: Count de Schwerin:
Descends into the Silver Mine.
371
LETTER XLII.
Mountains of Dalecarlia: Hedemora: Fahlun: Descends into the
Copper Mine: the Hall of the Senate: Gustavus Vasa
LETTER XLIII.
380
Leaves Fahlun: Pearson's House, the Retreat of Gustavus Vasa: its
heroic Mistress: Escape of the Prince: Interior of the House: the
Bed of Gustavus: its Modern Decorations: Effigy of that Prince:
Portraits of Dalecarlian Peasants: Portrait of the Heroine of the
Scene: Banks of the Dahl: Mountain Scenery: a Forest: Affes-
taforce: Dresses of Dalecarlian Peasants: their Habitations and
Food: Leaves the Mountains: Wolves: Westerahs: Tomb of
Eric XIV.: Old Palace of Gustavus III.: Runic stones 387
LETTER XLIV.
Returns to Stockholm: Visits the famous, Sergal: Klopstock, the
German Poet: Sergal's Works: Busts of the two latter Gus-
tavuses: Bust of the Queen: Statue of Venus: Venus and
Diomede: Cupid and Psyche: Sergal compared with other
Artists: Statue of Gustavus Adolphus: Statue of Gustavus Vasa:
Hall of the Knights: the Palace: Statue of a Priestess: Minerva:
the Muses: Apollo: Endymion: Antiques from Herculaneum:
Pictures: Exhibition: Academy of Painting
LETTER XLV.
397
Anniversary of the Order of the Seraphim: Uniforms of the Knights:
Creation of a Knight of the Seraphim: Account of the Order:
Order of the Amaranth
406
LETTER XLVI.
Arsenal: Armed Effigies of the Swedish Kings: Royal Saddles:
Ancient Spurs: Habiliments of Charles XII.: Carriage of Prince
John of Sweden: Peter the Great: Charles XII.
LETTER XLVII.
410
May-Day: Cavalcade: Haga: Queen of Sweden: Spring: Swedish
Bravery: Conquest at Aland: the Gallant Peasant: the Royal
Reward
421